METHODS FOR IMPROVING THE QUALITATIVE INDICATORS OF FABRIC ON THE BASIS OF HEMP COTONINE FOR THE TOP OF FOOTWEAR
Authors: Galina Boyko, Tetiana Holovenko, Svitlana Yageluk, Olena Dombrovskaya, Tetyana Kuzmina and Valentina Evtushenko
Abstract: Every year there is a growing interest in the use of technical hemp in light industry, not only abroad, but also in Ukraine. Many native entrepreneurs in the production of textiles use natural, environmentally friendly hemp fibers. This is due to the high quality properties of the fibers of this culture. Hemp fiber has great wear resistance and strength, even when compared to linen or cotton fibers. Hemp fibers have high hygroscopic properties Due to the porous structure of hemp fiber, the fabric obtained from it is able to absorb moisture up to five hundred percent of its weight. Also, these fibers are hypoallergenic. But, with such quality indicators, hemp fiber has a high breaking elongation; this negatively affects the performance properties of footwear. This article analyzes all the factors that negatively affect the shape stability of the shoe upper fabric, based on technical hemp fibers: high relative breaking elongation of hemp cottonin - 17.2%; fibrous and percentage composition of warp and weft threads in shoe upper fabrics and the weave of the shoe upper fabric. Based on the above experimental studies, a number of scientific hypotheses have been proposed that will help solve the negative impact of the above factors on the performance properties of industrial hemp footwear. The implementation of these hypotheses will improve the quality of native products made from industrial hemp and make them competitive in the domestic and European markets.
Keywords: Steaming, hemp cottonin, physical and mechanical properties, shoe products.
Pages: 3-8
EVALUATION OF ECONOMIC POTENTIAL OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY ENTERPRISES
Authors: Aktam Burkhanov and Begalova Durdona Bakhodirovna
Abstract: In this article has been proposed a new methodology for assessing the economic potential of textile enterprises. As a result of the analysis of foreign literature, the marginal values of the economic potential of the enterprise were determined. By the author have been proposed formulas for calculating indicators such as own working capital ratio, return on assets, return on long-term capital, etc. The level of financial security of textile enterprises operating in Uzbekistan has also been assessed and analyzed, and scientific proposals and practical recommendations have been developed to ensure their financial security. Proposed methods were implemented on private enterprise "OSBORN TEXTILE" and Joint- Venture "UZTEX TASHKENT" operating in Uzbekistan. Based on secondary accounting data of enterprises, the financial security situation of enterprises was analyzed and proposals for staving off threats were elaborated. This technique can be applied in all textile enterprises operating in the world.
Keywords: Financial security, textile enterprise, liquidity, financial resources, capital, net profit.
Pages: 9-21
DEVELOPMENT OF THE ELASTIC LEATHER MATERIALS PRODUCTION TECHNOLOGY
Authors: Аnatolii Danylkovych, Olga Sanginova, Viktor Lishchuk and Serhii Bondarenko
Abstract: The filling-fatliquoring technology of chrome tanned semi-processed leather at the production of elastic leather materials from the raw bull hides with the use of the optimized fatliquor composition is developed. The influence of the fatliquor composition on the physical and chemical properties of elastic leather material is studied. The formula composition was optimized using the global criterion method, which allowed to reduce the problem of multicriteria optimization to single-criteria. A D-optimal plan is designed and implemented by the modified McLean-Anderson method and an adequate mathematical model of the filling-fatliquoring process is obtained. The main parameters of optimization of the constructed model were: yield of leather material, its strength limit and stiffness. A computing module was developed in Visual Basic for Application to automate the calculation; the module allows to determine the optimal process parameters and can be used to optimize similar technological processes. The optimised fatliquor composition provides highly elastic properties of leather material, which in terms of technological properties surpasses the material formed by production technology, respectively, elongation at a stress of 9.81 MPa greater by 21.0% and lower stiffness by 27.0%. A significant increase in the yield of the obtained material ensures the efficient use of raw hides and meets the requirements of DSTU 3115- 95 “Garment leather. General technical conditions”. The industrial testing results of the developed fillingfatliquoring processes suggest their effective use in new and improved technologies of elastic leather materials production from other types of raw hides and skins.
Keywords: Semi-finished leather, filling-fatliquoring technology, elastic leather material, fatliquor composition, McLean-Anderson method, optimization, global criterion method.
Pages: 22-28
THE EFFECT OF WASHING OPERATIONS ON THE ANTIBACTERIAL TREATMENT OF IHRAM CLOTHING USED IN HAJJ AND UMRAH
Authors: Rania Moustafa Kamel Abdulaal Debes
Abstract: The Ihram is worn in Hajj and Umrah. It’s woven with soft different weights and properties, and it also consists of two pieces. Makkah has a hot humid climate, and pilgrims wear Ihrams for a long time, which leads to the accumulation of components of sweat and skin fat due to the impact of the sun's burning and high humidity and dust with the multitude of gatherings, which is a good environment for the bacteria and microorganisms to grow on the Ihram and this affects the public health of the individual and makes it more susceptible to diseases. This research aims to measure the effect of washing operations on the antibacterial treatment of Ihram garments. The results reached showed that treating the Ihram’s fabric against bacteria through nanosilver does not negatively affect the feeling of comfort when wearing it, and the ihram’s appearance is not affected by the treatment processes. In addition to that, it resists bacteria and types of fungi with a strong degree, but this decreases through the number of washes so that it can be wearable, but the anti-bacterial effect is weakened.
Keywords: Washing operations, antibacterial treatment, Ihram clothing.
Pages: 29-34
IMPLEMENTATION OF STRATEGIC IMPERATIVES FOR STRENGTHENING THE ECONOMIC SECURITY OF TEXTILE ENTERPRISES THROUGH INTRODUCTION OF AGILE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM
Authors: Larysa Liubokhynets, Yevhenii Rudnichenko and Nataliia Havlovska
Abstract: The article proposes a model of a probabilistic neural network in order to ensure a sufficient level of economic security through the introduction of agile enterprise management system. It is built on the basis of statistical classifiers highlighting the degree of threats to economic security of enterprise. An input matrix for a probabilistic neural network was developed and a target matrix of classes (states) was formed. A probabilistic neural network was built in the environment using the built-in Matlab-function «newpnn», based on the proposed matrices. A list of management decisions that is a response to determined degree of threat was identified for each degree of threat to economic security. Detailing of management decisions in terms of individual components allows managers to understand the response to the current threat from the standpoint of effective management. Also, availability of alternatives expands opportunities for managers to improve existing management system in various directions. Implementation of management decisions using a neural network can reduce the degree of threats to economic security of enterprise. The article forms a target matrix of lists of actions of company's management and a crucial probabilistic neural network is built in Matlab environment. The implementation of the proposed approach is tested on the example of a particular enterprise, which indicates its suitability for practical use and solution of applied practical problems. Accordingly, the proposals developed in the study on the use of neural network allow a management of enterprise to respond quickly to current threats and risks.
Keywords: Economic security, threats, agile management, management decisions, modeling, neural network.
Pages: 35-44
THE ROLE OF ARTISANS IN THE BATIK DESIGNS DEVELOPMENT AS A TRADITIONAL TEXTILE IN INDONESIA
Authors:Desy Nurcahyanti, Mulyanto and Agus Sachari
Abstract: This study aims to examine the background and role of artisans in the development and visualization of batik designs. This background is related to batik design development’s cause factors. The role that becomes a research question is the batik artisan involvement in Girilayu, Karanganyar Regency, Central Java, Indonesia. That involvement includes perceptions and participation in adding to the batik designs variety as traditional textiles; that attached to people's lives as a complement to traditional ceremonies and clothing needs. Data collection was carried out by literature review, interview, field observation and interactive methods analysis. The result shows that batik artisans’ role motivation as an internal factor contributes to the Girilayu’s batik designs development in Karanganyar. External factors that affect, among others, culture, the interaction between a community of crafters in the Girilayu region, beliefs, customs, geographical location, and natural conditions that directly affect the visualization of batik motifs. Design in that case acts as a mediator of the society’s mindset and reality in producing product visualization. The role of batik artisans in design development is to produce contemporary motifs inspired by social trends and issues. Batik Girilayu’s development designs are influenced by batik artisan ability to elaborate on experiences, insights, sensitivity, functional, contextual expertise and natural conditions that directly influence batik motifs visualization.
Keywords: Artisans, batik, design development, roles, traditional textiles.
Pages: 45-53
THE EFFECT OF ALTERNATIVE FILLERS BASED ON POLYPROPYLENE WASTE FROM FIBERS AND FOILS PRODUCTION ON PROPERTIES OF RUBBER COMPOUND
Authors: Mariana Pajtášová, Katarína Holcová, Darina Ondrušová, Róbert Janík, Petra Skalková, Silvia Ďurišová and Andrej Dubec
Abstract:The submitted study represents the research of alternative fillers based on polypropylene (PP) waste from the production of PP fibres and PP foils and its application in the polymeric materials applied in rubber industry. Properties of alternative fillers based on PP fibers and PP powder were studied by spectral and thermal analysis. The study is aimed at the use of polypropylene fibres and polypropylene powder as fillers in rubber blend as a partial replacement of carbon black. The influence of amount and the type of used alternative filler in rubber blend was evaluated. Curing characteristics of prepared tread blends were studied. Physical-mechanical properties before and after accelerated thermal aging in air and dynamical mechanical properties of prepared vulcanizates were determined and studied. The evaluation of prepared tread blends respectively tread vulcanizates results the possibility of partial replacement of common used carbon black N339 by studied PP fibres and PP powder.
Keywords: Polypropylene, alternative fillers, curing characteristics, physical-mechanical properties, dynamical and mechanical analysis.
Pages: 54-62
ANALYSIS OF METHODS OF PRINTING IMAGES ON TEXTILE MATERIALS AND EVALUATION OF THEIR QUALITY
Authors: Dmytro Prybeha, Julia Koshevko, Svitlana Smutko, Volodymyr Onofriichuk, Mykola Skyba, Oleg Synyuk, Svetlana Kuleshova, Svitlana Pidhaichuk and Borys Zlotenko
Abstract: The peculiarities of the methods of printing images on textile materials are analyzed; the research of the criteria for choosing the method of printing is performed. The list of criteria is supplemented and presented in a form convenient for use in the analysis and selection of the method of printing images on textile materials in each case. The method of calculating the cost of a batch of products for each of the methods of printing the image is given. The results obtained, according to this method, make it possible to make an economic assessment of each of the printing methods and decide on the appropriateness of their use. In the course of experimental research the degrees of resistance of the images put by various methods of printing to friction and in the process of washing were established. The application of the results of this study will allow a qualitative and effective assessment of methods of printing images on textile materials depending on the production conditions for each type of product.
Keywords: Images, textile materials, printing methods, screen printing, digital printing, sublimation printing, thermal transfer printing, printing cost, performance.
Pages: 63-74
STRETCHABLE DENIM PROPERTIES DEPENDENCY ON INDUSTRIAL WASHING TECHNIQUES
Authors: Md. Reazuddin Repon, Tarikul Islam, Halima Tus Sadia, Md. Rezaul Karim, Muhammad Usman Munir and Mohammad Abdul Jalil
Abstract: Day by day washing process of denim is turning into the art of new fashion trends as it can create various sorts of style and effect in the denim garment. On account of washing, the properties of denim are additionally built up that expands consumer esteem. The target of the present research work is to disclose the modification of the characteristics of the spandex containing denim fabrics after applying different industrial washing techniques. To perform this work, 3/1 twill weave denim fabric composed of 98% cotton along with 2% spandex has been taken and subjected to different industrial washing techniques viz. bleach, acid, potassium permanganate, enzyme and stone enzyme washing. The surface density of the fabric, weight loss, shrinkage, colour fastness to wash, rubbing, phenolic yellowing, tearing strength and tensile strength have been determined to assess the impact of washing techniques on spandex containing denim fabric. The tested results claim that significant changes have occurred in the denim properties by introducing different washing techniques.
Keywords: Denim washing, phenolic yellowing, spandex, tearing strength, tensile strength.
Pages: 75-81
A NEW MODERN THEORETICAL VIEW OF THE STRUCTURAL MODEL OF THE STRUCTURE OF NATURAL LEATHER
Authors: Mykola Skyba, Oleg Synyuk, Borys Zlotenko, Tetiana Kulik and Svitlana Natroshvili
Abstract: The article presents approaches to the processing of waste from natural leather to artificial leather while preserving the beneficial properties of natural leather. It is proposed not to grind, but to defiber leather waste, i.e. before the destruction of the material you need to weaken its structure so that the fibers are easily separated at loads less than the breaking point of a single fiber. As a result of the analysis it is established that the structure and properties of leather materials form the basis of the processes of their defibering. A structural model of the structure of natural leather has been developed, which makes it possible to determine the change in the properties of leather fibers under the action of loads in the process of defibering natural leather waste and to establish a relationship with the properties of artificial leather obtained from recycled natural leather. It is established that the fibers, joining in bundles that look like strands or ribbons, and intertwining in all directions form a structural element of the natural leather. Elastic fibers, when combined with tannins and glycoproteins, which are unbound between the structural elements of the natural leather, form a macroscopic element of the natural leather.
Keywords: Waste, leather, fibrils, collagen, fibers, material, properties.
Pages: 82-90
APPLICATION OF ARDUINO-LIKE SYSTEMS FOR DETERMINATION OF PHYSICAL AND MECHANICAL INDICATORS OF FLAX FIBER
Authors: Volodymyr Tolmachov and Andriy Ryabko
Abstract: Ways of application of Arduino-like systems in devices for measurement of physical and mechanical indices of quality of long flax fiber that will allow to improve process of measurement and to reduce time for its carrying out are described. Different approaches to determining of the average length of flax fiber are analysed. The developed method for determining the average length of flax fiber using Arduino systems is considered.
Keywords: Flax fiber, quality indices, average length, rating number, algorithm, microcontroller, measurement methods, Arduino.
Pages: 91-98
APPLICATIVE AND RHEOLOGICAL PROPERTIES OF PLA MASTERBATCHES WITH CONTENT OF PLASTICIZER AND BIOPLASTICIZER
Authors: Z. Tomčíková, A. Ujhelyiová, K. Holcová, M. Hricová and R. Plavec
Abstract: Synthetic fibres prepared from standard types of polymers such as PP, PA and PET are no longer sufficient to cover all user requirements, therefore standard types of polymers are mixed and modified with various additives such as pigments, plasticizers, dispersants etc., and at the same time new types of polymers are being sought for fibres production. The effort of fibre producers and their processors is to meet the needs of users as much as possible. As there is currently a global problem with waste plastics, various solutions are being sought, either by recycling synthetic plastics or by looking for new biodegradable polymers. In recent years, much attention has been focused on polylactic acid (polylactide), which is biodegradable under certain conditions. In the present work, masterbatches prepared from two types of polylactic acid with 15% additive content will be studied. Polylactic acid is very brittle, which makes a problem in the preparation of fibres, so this article is focused on evaluating the PLA masterbatches containing plasticizers. In generally, plasticizers help to reduce the brittleness and increase the elasticity of the fibres. The applicative and rheological properties of the prepared PLA masterbatches were studied. The flow properties of masterbatches containing 15% non-biodegradable plasticizer with masterbatches containing 15% biodegradable plasticizer were compared.
Keywords: PLA masterbatches, applicative properties, rheological properties, plasticizer, bioplasticizer.
Pages: 99-104
DEVELOPMENT OF THE MOBILE APPLICATIONS FOR USING IN APPAREL AND SHOES DESING
Authors: Oksana Zakharkevich, Julia Koshevko, Svetlana Kuleshova, Serhii Tkachuk and Anatolii Dombrovskyi
Abstract: The globalization of the fashion clothing and footwear market, the significant influence of social networks and the speed of the spread of fashion trends require the presence of appropriate mobile technologies in the arsenal of a light industry specialist. Having analyzed the market of mobile applications in the field of shoe production, it has been singled out that there is the lack of applications that provide the calculation of details of shoe design and allow maintaining distance learning conditions for students in the industry. The similar conclusion was made for the field of apparel design. The aim of the study is to develop mobile applications to support the process of shoe and apparel design using computational and graphical methods of construction. The initial information on the construction of shoe and garment designs has been structured. The method of construction has been transformed into a tabular form by selecting elementary graphical operations; each one has been described by an attribute tuple. Modular synthesis of the structure for step-by-step presentation of information in the mobile applications has been applied. The implementation of step-by-step layering of structural modules by the principle of modular synthesis has been performed using the mechanism of on and off layers in the environment of the graphics editor. The method of semantic differential has been used to evaluate the developed mobile applications. The scales of the semantic differential for each attribute of the mobile applications have been represented as bipolar pairs expressed by adjectives or adverbs. The resulting psychographic profiles of the applications indicate a positive assessment by experts, as the coefficients correspond to the positive values of the Kansei words. The developed applications are intended for use by teachers and students of higher educational institutions, representatives of shoe/apparel companies, pupils and teachers of colleges, technical schools. The results of a survey of students and teachers have confirmed the need for the introduction of a mobile technology.
Keywords: Mobile applications, design calculation, shoe details, garment parts, psychographic profile, modular synthesis.
Pages: 105-122
