ADAPTIVE CLOTHING DESIGN: FROM FOCUS GROUP EVALUATION TO FUNCTIONAL PROTOTYPES
Authors: BUKHANTSOVA, LIUDMYLA; LUSCHEVSKA, OLENA; KOVALCHUK, DMYTRO; ZAKHARKEVICH, OKSANA; KRASNIUK, LARYSA; DITKOVSKA, OLESYA; YANTSALOVSKYI, OLEKSANDR; KULESHOVA, SVITLANA AND SHVETS, GALINA
Abstract: The importance of adaptive clothing has grown considerably in response to the needs of individuals with physical disabilities, whether congenital or acquired. This study explores the principles of user-centred design in developing adaptive clothing, using a framework informed by focus group discussions. The aim was to gather detailed insights to guide the design process, ensuring that users' needs and preferences are effectively addressed. To achieve this, three separate focus groups were created, comprising 7 medical staff, 5 patients from the surgical department, and 12 patients undergoing rehabilitation. This diverse representation sought to address the different needs associated with varying mobility levels, treatment durations, and care requirements. The approach aims to understand the experiences and needs of adaptive clothing users thoroughly. As a result, an effective adaptive design was developed, focusing on clothing that is not only functional and visually appealing but also genuinely meets the users' needs.
Keywords: Adaptive Clothing Design; Digital Fashion; Human Factors; Human-Centred Design; Disability; Focus Group.
Pages: 3-16
TRENDS AND GAPS IN SUSTAINABLE FASHION RESEARCH: A BIBLIOMETRIC ANALYSIS
Authors: DIVRIK, ASLI SEDEF
Abstract: This research consists of a bibliometric analysis on sustainable and fast fashion that were published between 2007 and March 2025. With 764 articles taken from the Web of Science the analysis contains co-citation, co-occurrence, and clustering techniques to map thematic trends. There is an intense growth in research after 2015 and even further intensification post-2020 in alignment with the rising consumer awareness and policy initiatives. The results demonstrate that sustainability is an interdisciplinary field spanning environmental sciences, business, consumer studies, and textile engineering. Fiber recycling, bio-based fabrics, and low-impact dyeing are emerging themes, while gaps remain in communication, ethics, and cultural dimensions.
Keywords: Bibliometric Analysis, Circular Economy, Fast Fashion, Sustainable Fashion, Textile Innovation.
Pages: 17-24
RESEARCH ON INFLUENCE OF SEALING PARAMETERS ON STRENGTH AND WATER RESISTANCE OF STITCH-SEALING AND WELD-SEALING SEAM
Authors: NGUYEN, QUOC TOAN; DAO, THI TINH1; TRAN, THI NGAT AND PHAN, DUY-NAM
Abstract: This study presents a comparative investigation of the performance of two-seam sealing techniques stitch-sealing and ultrasonic weld-sealing applied to three-layer waterproof fabric composites used in high-performance apparel. A Box-Wilson Central Composite Design was adopted to systematically evaluate the effects of three critical sealing parameters temperature, sealing speed, and air pressure on seam thickness, tensile strength, and hydrostatic water resistance. Experimental trials were conducted both before and after 10 standardized domestic laundering cycles, following ISO 811 (hydrostatic head test) and ISO 13935-2 (grab tensile strength) protocols. Results revealed that weld-sealed joints consistently exhibited lower seam thickness and superior water resistance under all tested conditions, contributing to enhanced wearer comfort. Conversely, stitch-sealed seams demonstrated significantly higher tensile strength, particularly under high-temperature and high-pressure settings. Quadratic regression modeling indicated that temperature was the most influential parameter, with notable two-factor interaction effects observed especially between temperature and air pressure. These findings underscore the importance of optimizing sealing conditions based on end-use requirements, offering a scientific basis for the rational selection of seam sealing technologies in the manufacturing of functional waterproof garments.
Keywords: Sealing Parameters, Seam Strength, Stitch-sealing, Water Resistance, Weld-sealing, 3-layer Waterproof fabric.
Pages: 25-37
RESEARCH ON SHAPE MEMORY PROPERTIES OF WOOL YARN AND WOOL KNITTED FABRIC AFTER DESCALING TREATMENT BY ULTRASONIC
Authors: THUY DAO THI CHINH, HUONG CHU DIEU
Abstract: Wool is one of the most widely used proteinic material for textile products due to its outstanding desirable properties including excellent thermal insulation, breathability, flame retardancy and comfort properties. Moreover, wool has shape memory capability, so it is good candidate for thermo-regulating clothes. However, wool fibers have a surface structure of overlapping cuticle cells known as scales which significantly affect fiber properties. This paper investigated the appearance, strength, extension and the shape memory behavior of the wool yarn and also the wool rib knitted fabric before and after descaling its cuticle cells using calcium carbonate nano powder (CCNP) powder with the concentration of 2 g/l, 5 g/l, and 10g/l in ultrasonic bath. The shape memory behavior of wool yarn, and rib knitted fabric were examined by changing between the warm-humid (temperature of 28°C; humidity of 90%) and the cold-dry condition (temperature of 8oC; humidity of 20%). The results showed that the increase of CCNP concentration improved the descaling effect, which resulted in less sharp morphology of scales on the wool fiber surface. Wool yarn breaking strength and elongation tended to increase due to the increase of CCNP concentration, while the value of CV (%) decreased. Moreover, the results demonstrated that the length of wool yarn did not change much for both original and treated yarns while descaled fabric possessed higher shape memory ability than untreated fabric, especially in vertical direction with 100 % of the original value, and the horizontal shape memory ability was in range of 93.8 % to 97.6 %.
Keywords: Calcium Carbonate Nano Powder, Knitted Fabric, Shape Memory Ability, Ultrasonic, Wool Fibre.
Pages: 38-45
EXPLORATION OF LASEM BATIK MOTIFS THROUGH A FITTING TOOL “ARBATULA” APPLICATION BASED ON AUGMENTED REALITY
Authors: HARYADI, TOTO; SETIAWAN, AGUS; MUQODDAS, ALI AND SUGIYANTO, SUGIYANTO
Abstract: Lasem batik is one of the prestigious cultural products of Rembang Regency, with distinctive motifs including Sekar Jagad, Latohan, and Watu kricak. Lasem batik faces an existential crisis due to declining interest among the younger generation in preserving it. Various efforts have been made, one of which is by academics who have made Lasem batik a research topic by adapting digital technology as a representation of the lives of the younger generation. The most basic preservation of Lasem batik can begin with the introduction of motifs through fashion, in line with current trends. This became the basis for the author to conduct exploratory research on Lasem batik motifs through the Fitting Tool application based on Augmented Reality technology. Both have been applied in the fashion industry, but have never been applied to Lasem batik motifs. This research uses a Research and Development method that is oriented towards innovative product development and descriptive presentation. Data collection was conducted through observation, interviews, and documentation at the Lasem Batik Cooperative, supported by a literature review of journals and books on Lasem batik. The main result of this research is the "ARBatula" application prototype, which simulates an Augmented Reality-based fitting tool to display Lasem batik motifs on 3D fashion through markers with several features such as gender selection, motif selection, and mode selection. The results of this research are expected to attract the attention of the younger generation in an effort to preserve the existence of Lasem batik through a technological and fashion approach.
Keywords: ARBatula, Augmented Reality, Batik, Fashion, Fitting Tool, Lasem, Motif.
Pages: 46-60