EXPERIMENTATION OF MANGO LEAF EXTRACT (MANGIFERA INDICA L.) FOR NATURAL DYE MATERIALS FOR BATIK FABRICS
Authors: HAMIDAH, MIDA; ABDULLAH, FARID; SOBANDI, BANDI; PAWITAN, ZAKIAH; SYA’BANY, DEWI M. 1; B. SUKARMAN; HASNAWATI, HASNAWATI AND PANDANWANGI, ARIESA
Abstract: The use of natural dyes is an effort to reduce the impact of environmental pollution on the production process of batik that uses synthetic colors. This experimental study aims to explore the stages and results of the natural color dyeing of mango leaf extract by using different fixator variables and batting processes. Batik cloth is dyed three times in a solution of mango leaf extract as a dependent variable, then fixed with a lime solution (Ca(OH)2), an alum solution (Al2(SO4)3K2SO424H2O) and a ferrous sulfate solution (FeSO4.7H2O) as an independent variable. Results of the study: 1) The stages of the process of dyeing plain and patterned batik cloth with Mango Gedong Lip Batik leaf extract with a fixator of lime solution, alum, and ferrous sulfate solution are carried out through the following stages: processing the fabric and dye of mango leaf extract, writing motifs with canting caps, dipping batik fabric, fixing batik fabrics with fixators, and releasing wax from batik fabric; 2) The results of dyeing plain and patterned batik cloth with Gedong Gincu Mango leaf extracts with lime solution fixators tend to be brown; alum fixation produces original colors; and ferrous sulfate fixators produce colors that tend to be blackish-green. The dyeing results on plain batik fabrics have stronger color intensity than the dyeing results on patterned batik fabrics because they undergo the nglorod process (separation of batik wax from batik fabric) with hot water added with sodium carbonate auxiliary substances (Na2CO3). Research recommends that artisans utilize plant waste to promote the green industry.
Keywords: Experimentation; Mango Leaf Extract; After-Mordanting; Natural Dyes; Batik Fabric; Green Industry.
Pages: 3-12
HYBRID 3D WOVEN STRUCTURES FOR CONCRETE REINFORCEMENT UNDER IMPACT LOADING PART 1: DEVELOPMENT OF A BI-AXIAL CORE DESIGN
Authors: ORTEGA ARBULU, JUAN DANIEL; NUSS, DOMINIK AND CHERIF, CHOKRI
Abstract: Steel reinforced concrete (RC) is extensively used in the construction industry due to its high strength, durability, and versatility. Nonetheless, its resilience under dynamic loads, such as impact, remains particularly low. The research training group DFG GRK 2250 aims to significantly improve the impact energy absorption of existing infrastructures by applying thin layers of an innovative strengthening material composed of a strain hardening cementitious composite and a novel textile reinforcement. This paper investigated methods for manufacturing 3D hybrid woven fabrics with a core incorporating spatial elements in both the weft and warp directions, based on a bi-axial core design. The challenges associated with shaping spatial elements before and during the weaving process were discussed, with the latter proving to be the optimal choice when combined with carbon fiber towpregs. After developing the structural design, selecting the materials for each element, and establishing the fabric binding pattern, a demonstrator was successfully produced using a modified rapier weaving machine.
Keywords: Woven cellular metals; 3D concrete reinforcement; Hybrid structure; Weaving technology.
Pages: 13-20
ADAPTIVE CLOTHING DESIGN FOR INJURED PEOPLE
Authors: BUKHANTSOVA, LIUDMYLA; LUSCHEVSKA, OLENA; KOVALCHUK, DMYTRO; ZACHARKEVICH, OKSANA; KRASNIUK, LARYSA; KOSHEVKO, YULIA; KHASANOVA, OKSANA AND BAZYLCHUK, OLEG
Abstract: Researchers have been paying increased attention to adaptive clothing as society's awareness of inclusivity and accessibility grows. This focus on adaptive clothing is particularly important for Ukraine, where there is a consistent need for products that cater to the needs of injured individuals. The research took a comprehensive approach to studying the issue. It involved engaging with hospital staff and patients with limb injuries to understand their exact requirements during treatment or rehabilitation after injuries. As a result of this collaboration, the gathered information became the foundation for creating men's clothing sets, which have been highly praised for their convenience and quality. This information can be used in future research on designing virtual adaptive clothing for individuals with limb amputations. The survey results can also assist clothing designers in effectively addressing the specific needs of consumers with limb injuries.
Keywords: Adaptive design; Adaptive clothing; Injury; Disability; Virtual clothing; CLO 3D.
Pages: 21-31
THE EFFECT OF GARMENT CUTTING ON FIBER LENGTH RETENTION IN WOOL-BLEND OFFCUTS WITH RESPECT TO THEIR FUTURE USE IN RECYCLED YARN PRODUCTION
Authors: BASHO, MEGI; CHAVOSHI, AVA AND CEBULLA, HOLGER
Abstract: The growing demand for sustainable textile production highlights the importance for effective recycling of pre-consumer textile waste, particularly wool and wool blends. Production highlights the importance of recycling pre-consumer textile waste to minimize the environmental impact. While many studies focus on fiber recycling, few investigate the root cause of the fiber shortening during the cutting and shredding process. This study investigates how cutting fabric impacts fiber retention in recycled yarn production, focusing on three common knit patterns—Rib 1x1, Double Jersey, and Interlock. Using a 70% wool and 30% silk blend, the study identifies optimal cutting dimensions to minimize fiber loss during recycling. Experimental analyses of fabric samples (1–10 cm lengths) revealed that cuts of approximately 7 cm effectively preserved fiber lengths across all patterns, with confidence intervals demonstrating consistent retention. Image processing techniques further categorized leftover materials, enabling their allocation to specific spinning processes (short-staple, medium-staple, and long-staple). The findings contribute to optimizing recycling processes, improving fiber retention, advancing circular economy practices in textile production, and hold potential for practical implementation in automated recycling systems and enhanced yarn production workflows.
Keywords: Sustainable Design; Zero-Waste Fashion Design; Design Thinking; Artificial Intelligence; Empathy in Design, Art Pedagogy.
Pages: 32-40
CREATIVE APPROACHES TO TEACHING SUSTAINABLE DESIGN
Authors: VESELÁ, ZUZANA; NOSÁLOVÁ, AGÁTA; STŘÍDOVÁ, ANNA; KLOZOVÁ, KATEŘINA AND DITTRT, ŠTĚPÁN
Abstract: Sustainable design has become a crucial standard of modern design, with its teaching requiring the integration of theory, practice, and innovative pedagogical approaches. This article presents creative teaching methodologies at the Department of Design, Faculty of Textile Engineering, Technical University of Liberec, focusing on Design Thinking combined with Zero-Waste Fashion methods and the integration of artificial intelligence. The instruction blends traditional principles inspired by Bauhaus pedagogy with modern technologies and interdisciplinary projects, thus preparing students for the challenges associated with environmental responsibility. Through specific student projects, the article demonstrates how these innovative approaches can be applied in practice and how they foster the development of empathy, creativity, and critical thinking. Research findings confirm that integrating sustainable methods into education enables students to create aesthetically appealing and functional designs with minimal environmental impact. This approach proves to be pivotal in shaping a new generation of responsible designers.
Keywords: Sustainable Design; Zero-Waste Fashion Design; Design Thinking; Artificial Intelligence; Empathy in Design, Art Pedagogy.
Pages: 41-50
