THE FUTURE OF ORGANIC COLORED COTTON
Authors: Sana Mahmoud Abbasi
Abstract: Organic fibers are produced without chemical fertilizer, pesticides and genetically modified seeds (GMO). They require more time, labor and cost as they need special care than conventional fibers. Organic fibers alone are not safe, as added finishes can have toxic-effects. Therefore, Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) includes environmental-ecological, social and economic aspects of the production such as: prevention of pollution, contribution to prevention of global warming, decrease of waste and recycling. The economic impacts include the cost value of the organic fiber production and selling. On the social level, the future of the production of organic fibers in the world depends on textile, agriculture and environment-ecology. As people are becoming more conscious about their health and environment by wearing organic textile products, especially cotton, they are willing to spend more to wear these organic textiles. This research paper will look into the organic colored cotton and its future.
Keywords: Organic fibers, organic textiles, colored cotton, environmental protection, pesticide.
Pages: 3-12
EFFECT OF DIFFERENT WET PROCESSING STAGES ON PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF COTTON WOVEN FABRICS
Authors: Najwa Ali Abu Nassif
Abstract: This paper sheds light upon the influence of pretreatment as one of the most important wet processing stages on cotton woven fabric properties. Throughout this study a part of the woven fabrics were in a grey form while the second part of fabrics subjected to desizing and scouring and the third part subjected to desizing, scouring and bleaching respectively. All the pretreated fabrics will be compared to each other and to grey woven fabrics of the same characteristics. The findings of the experimental results revealed that physical and mechanical properties of woven fabrics have been influenced significantly with wet processing stages especially tensile strength, air permeability and tearing strength.
Keywords: Wet processing, woven fabrics, physical properties, tensile strength, breaking elongation, air permeability.
Pages: 13-18
A STUDY OF AIR PERMEABILITY INFLUENCES ON PATTERN CUTTING
Authors: Frederick T. Fung, Lubos Hes and Vladimir Bajzik
Abstract: This paper is presenting part of the research for “Redefining Men’s Shirt Pattern by means of Thermal Insulation, Water Vapor Permeability, Air Permeability and Body Movement”. In this part, the research studies the effects of air permeability on four important parameters for clothing comfort and pattern cutting. The four parameters are the grain lines, aging fabric, wash and dry cycle of fabric and moisture content of the fabric. Results will be analyzed and be collected as one of the factors to create an ideal pattern for a men’s shirt.
Keywords: Air permeability, pattern cutting, grain lines, aging fabric, moisture.
Pages: 19-26
EFFECT OF UV WEATHERING ON THE COMFORT AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF ABAYA CLOTHING
Authors: EmadEldin Sayed Gohar and Adnan Mazari
Abstract: Ultraviolet rays from the sun are the major reason to cause physical damage to the clothing in warm countries. The typical clothing “Abaya” worn in Arab countries are affected by this strong UV rays. In this research the properties like comfort, air permeability and drape property will be examined for the clothing before and after artificial weathering. Special accelerated artificial weathering machine form company “Atlas” will be used and the samples will be tested under repeated cycles of UV light. This accelerated weathering will give us a real condition of clothing after years of wearing under sun. The thermo-physiological properties of the fabric are analysed before and after weathering. The results show significant decrease in drape, air permeability and water vapour permeability, whereas a minor change is observed for the thermal resistance.
Keywords: Clothing, comfort, UV, comfort.
Pages: 27-31
CHANGES IN EDUCATION FOR TEXTILE PRODUCTION IN THE INDUSTRIALISATION PROCESS
Authors: Petr Kadlec
Abstract: This study deals with the issue of the changes in the professional training of those who participated in textile production during the industrialisation process in the second half of the 19th and early 20th century, when the mechanised factory mass production overshadowed the traditional forms of production and final treatment of textiles based on handiwork. It introduces the newly forming education possibilities, the birth of the system of textile education, the attitude of both the state and non-state officials and, last but not least, also the students of textile schools. In the first part of the study we will present the general tendencies based on knowledge from the Cisleithanian part of the Habsburg Monarchy, while the second part presents a more detailed insight into textile education on the territory of the so-called Austrian Silesia from the mid-19th century until the First World War.
Keywords: Education, schools, students, industrialisation, Cisleithania, Silesia, 19th century, 20th century.
Pages: 32-46
DISTRIBUTION OF THE SIZES OF MICROCAPSULES IN TWO-PHASE EMULSIONS FOR TREATMENT OF TEXTILE MATERIALS
Authors: Mykola Riabchykov, Alexandr Alexandrov, Iryna Tsykhanovska, Svitlana Nechipor, Anastasiia Nikulina and Sergiy Vilkov
Abstract: The article is devoted to the study of two-component emulsions intended for processing textile materials, taking into account the distribution of microcapsules in the nano-range of sizes. It is noted that the effect of reducing emulsion droplets can be achieved with the use of modified magnetite nanoparticles. The developed methods for determining the main characteristics of two-phase emulsions allow to determine in the express mode their main characteristics. An asymmetric representation of the particle size distribution function has been proven, 70% of which remain invisible in the optical spectrum. The specific results of the distribution of particles in an emulsion with nanoparticles of unmodified magnetite are given.
Keywords: Textile materials, nanotechnology, magnetite, two-component emulsion, microcapsules.
Pages: 47-52
STUDY OF THE INFLUENCE OF PREPARATION OF KNITTED FABRIC ON THE SURFACE AND SUPRAMOLECULAR STRUCTURE OF COTTON FIBER
Authors:Olga Semeshko, Tatyana Asaulyuk and Yulia Saribyekova
Abstract: The main goal of this research is to study the effect of preparation methods (alkaline boiling, basic combined boiling and bleaching technology, developed preparation technology) on the surface structure of cotton fibers and changes in the supramolecular structure of cellulose. The surface of the cotton fibers was examined using a scanning electron microscope and the supramolecular changes were studied by radiography. The results of the study of surface and supramolecular structure of cotton fibers explain the increase in the sorption ability of the knitted fabric, which was prepared according to the developed technology.
Keywords: Preparation, cotton knitted fabric, fiber surface, supramolecular structure.
Pages: 53-58
EFFECT OF THE YARN STRUCTURE ON THE TENSION DEGREE WHEN INTERACTING WITH HIGH-CURVED GUIDE
Authors: Volodymyr Shcherban’, Juliia Makarenko, Gennadiy Melnyk, Yuriiy Shcherban’, Andrii Petko and Anton Kirichenko
Abstract: The research of the yarn structure effect on the tension degree when interacting with guides and operative parts of weaving looms and knitting machines, which have a high curve in the area of contact with the yarn, has established the mechanism of the yarn tension increase after it passes the guide due to a change in the guide’s curve radius and friction forces in the contact area. It has been proved that the increase in tension is explained by a change in the angle between the yarn and the highcurved guide. At the same time, the actual angle for filament yarn and spun yarn will be higher than the nominal one due to yarn diameter deformation in the contact area, while the angle for monofilament yarns will be less than the nominal one due to the bending modulus. Based on the experimental research, regression relationships between the output tension and the radius of guide surface curve were obtained for polyamide filament yarns of various twists and monofilament yarns. The analysis of the research results made it possible to establish ultimate values of the guide curve radius at which tension will have minimal degree. This will enable minimization of the yarn tension during its processing on the production equipment. This leads to a decrease in yarn breakages, an increase in the production equipment performance by reducing its downtime, improving the quality of the fabric and knitted garments produced. This suggests a practical value of the proposed technology solutions. The latter, in particular, are related to determining optimal geometric dimensions of guides and operative parts of weaving looms and knitting machines, at which the output tension will have the minimal required degree. Therefore, there is a good reason to claim the possibility of guided management of the process of changing the yarn tension in weaving looms and knitting machines by choosing geometrical dimensions of high-curved guide for specific yarn types.
Keywords: Monofilament yarns, filament yarn, yarn tension, high-curved guides, braid angle, radius of the guide curve.
Pages: 59-68
ETHNIC DESIGNER COMPONENT OF CLOTHES’ DECORATION TECHNIQUES USING EMBROIDERY
Authors: Alla Slavanskaya, Oksana Syrotenko, Iryna Zasornova and Alexander Zasornov
Abstract: The problem of incorporating the embroidery of ethno designer's clothing into the technology of decorating clothes is investigated. The technique of adaptation of the sign system of ornaments to the technological support of machine embroidery is developed taking into account the concept of regional differences in the national costume of Podillya. The mechanism of scaling the size of the report of the cross-member element in accordance with the characteristics of the canvas groups is investigated. A project-design of ribbon ornament compositions on the details of Podillya shirts and modern women's costume using the “Inkscape” program has been developed. It was established that the construction of a geometric ornament according to the laws of symmetry provides technical conditions for the creation and testing of the quality of the embroidery ornament in accordance with the contours of parts of garments in graphic editor of Draw Ltd.
Keywords: Embroidery technology, ethno design, canvas, ornament report, cruciform element, scaling, embroidery machine, mosaic graph, program editor.
Pages: 69-83
DESIGNING OF SPECIAL CLOTHING BASED ON EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCHES OF MATERIAL PROPERTIES
Authors: T.V. Struminska, S.I. Prasol, E.V. Kolosnichenko, N.V. Chuprina and N.V. Ostapenko
Abstract: The article presents the results of experimental researches on determination of thermal and physical characteristics of thermal insulating materials using the principle of spatial three-dimensional presentation of the study object with distributed parameters. The proposed method of research and obtained experimental results provide an opportunity to determine thermal and physical properties of materials with high accuracy, which creates the conditions for improvement of the quality of special clothes designing.
Keywords: High temperature environment, thermal insulating materials, temperature conductivity coefficient.
Pages: 84-95
IDENTIFYING THE VALUES OF WHITENESS INDEX, STRENGTH AND WEIGHT OF COTTON SPANDEX WOVEN FABRIC IN PEROXIDE BLEACHING OF DIFFERENT CONCENTRATION
Authors: Shariful Islam, Shaikh Md. Mominul Alam and Shilpi Akter
Abstract: The purpose of this research is to identify the values of whiteness index, strength and weight (g/m2) of cotton spandex woven fabric in hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) bleaching of different concentration. Different concentration of H2O2 chemical during bleaching exhibits different values of the above stated properties. H2O2 in aqueous alkaline medium produced per hydroxyl ion that helped H2O2 to undergo homolytic fission to two hydroxyl radicals (OH•), which formed oxycellulose that attacked the cellulose of fibers, yarns or fabrics. Oxycellulose injured the mechanical properties like tear, tensile and weight values of the fabrics containing cellulose. Besides, H2O2 with NaOH solution established good bleaching action that improved the optical properties like whiteness values of fabric. The operation was conducted at 100°C to 110°C temperature with the machine speed of 40 meter per minute where the pH was observed from 10.5 to 11.5. Powerful oxidizer like H2O2 was used in this research for bleaching the specimen in "Benninger Ben Bleach" machine at different concentrated H2O2 solution like 15%, 25% and 35% with different gram per liter ratio. Whiteness index, weight, tear strength and tensile strength of the specimen were carried out in accordance with the test method mentioned in this paper. This research is practice based, and the outcomes are advantageous to the personnel involved in textile industries, who are in charge of conducting the bleaching operations of cotton spandex woven fabrics and to controlling of their above mechanical and optical properties.
Keywords: Concentration, oxidizer, oxycellulose, whiteness index, mechanical properties, optical properties.
Pages: 96-107
