Vlákna a textil, 29(2), 2022


Authors: Аndri Petrushevski

Abstract: Since the invention of woven fabric, various types of artistic printing on fabric have been used. One of the most ancient and widespread methods is letterpress and gravure printing. Besides printing, it is also widely used in industrial textile production. The creation of industrial printing plates is a very expensive process today. For this reason, for small editions more economical technologies are used, such as silk-screen printing. However, gravure and letterpress methods have several advantages over screen printing. Reducing the cost of production of printing plates of this type will be an undoubted progress. The relief on the surface of the printing plate is a three-dimensional construction. Therefore, it can be formed in the form of a digital three-dimensional model. Modern methods of three-dimensional printing make it possible to form a printed form based on such a digital model, suitable for use in the textile and printing industries. The introduction of this technology will definitely reduce the cost of manufacturing forms for textile printing. The article describes an experiment that confirms this assumption.

Keywords: 3D printing, printing plate, photopolymer, letterpress, intaglio printing.

Pages: 3-9


Authors:Tetiana Yelina, Liudmyla Halavska, Svitlana Bobrova, Nataliya Lytvynenko and Tetiana Dzykovych

Abstract: Stretchability of knitwear is one of the most important factors of wearing comfort. Elasticity of knitted structures in course wise direction is usually higher than along wales and often characterized by crosswise shrinkage. Existing methods of knitting program development do not consider the real rate of wale wise shrinkage of rib knitted structure under the course wise extension. During the study experimental research has been carried out to fulfill empirical data on the relationship between samples’ length and width under uniaxial course wise elongation. A range of samples of rib 1×1, 2×2, 3×3, 4×4 and 5×5 knits, made of cotton, bamboo, polyacrylonitrile (PAN), wool/acrylic blend and wool yarn, were stretched with a tensile machine WDW-05M. In the process of stretching the width of each specimen was defined in the moments of extension by 50, 100, 150, 200, 250 and 300 per cent. It has been found that linear approximation can be applied to describe the dependence of specimen’s width on its relative course wise elongation. It was found that the stitch height/width ratio changes unevenly. In the beginning of the process of course wise stretching of a rib knitted structure, it does exist, such an interval, where an increase of the knit’s linear size along the courses occurs without a significant shrinkage in the wale wise direction. It is suggested to name the upper limit of this interval as “unidimensional extension limit” and define it as an extension of a standard (100×50mm) specimen, at which its width decreases by 10%. It was found as well that the value of this index significantly depends on the ribbing variation and much less on the type of raw materials.

Keywords: Knitting, rib knits, stretching, courswise extension, crosswise shrinking.

Pages: 10-17


Authors: Andrew Slizkov, Halyna Mykhailova and Inna Borolis

Abstract: The article is intended to study the destruction mechanism of yarns of different structures under different types of deformations that occur during their textile processing (weaving, knitting, etc.). Improving the wear resistance of yarns is one of the main ways to determine the causes of their destruction in textile processing with their subsequent elimination. The significance of this problem is determined by the fact that increasing the reliability and endurance of yarns is equivalent to increasing output without additional labor and material resources. The ability of yarns for textile processing is mainly determined by their mechanical characteristics in tension: tensile strength and elongation, endurance, longevity, cyclic elongation, and the like. In the regulatory documents, this ability is mainly assessed only by the indicators of tensile strength and elongation, which does not fully characterize their behavior in textile processing. Therefore, the study of the features of the yarn destruction under different types of mechanical interactions, as well as the impact of their structure on the process of destruction, is relevant for predicting their endurance and developing a new range of textile fabrics.

Keywords: Textile threads, yarns, textile processing, wear resistance of yarns, breaking force, breaking elongation, breakage, complex method, endurance ratio.

Pages: 18-26


Authors: Fajar Ciptandi, Morinta Rosandini, Muhamad Lukman

Abstract: This participatory action study is aimed at identifying the adaptation level of traditional batik craftsmen in developing batik motif designs using jBatik software technology. The research participants consist of 10 traditional batik craftsmen, three from the innovators group and seven from the adopters group located in Kerek District, Tuban Regency, East Java Province, Indonesia. The application of jBatik technology will be carried out using the Diffusion of Innovation theory which divides the process stages into 5, namely the knowledge stage, persuasion stage, decision stage, implementation stage, and confirmation stage. The results of the theory application resulted in 4 things. First the knowledge about various social system variables and the characteristics of the innovation recipients. Second, the design of the communication model to include knowledge about the innovation of batik motif design as a result of the JBatik software. Third, the results of the simulation of the application of batik motif designs produced by the jBatik software with craftsmen. Fourth, validation of the simulation results of the application of batik motif design innovations by craftsmen by people who had the ability to measure the level of absorption of innovation, so that the level of adaptation of traditional craftsmen to the technological challenges of the jbatik device could be identified. This study contributes to determining the level of knowledge and basic skills possessed by traditional batik craftsmen to serve as a starting point in deciding innovation strategies to be solutions that can be implemented by them.

Keywords: Development, motif, batik, jBatik, craftsmen.

Pages: 27-43


Authors:Md. Khayrul Islam, Shekh Md. Mamun Kabir, Md. Dulal Hosen3, Md. Azharul Islam

Abstract: The resistance of the material to a change of its color characteristics during exposure to sunlight, rubbing and washing as domestic and laundry and other various ways are referred to as color fastness of dyes or pigments. In this research, 100% cotton and blended fabrics were dyed with fluorescent pigments i.e. Shining Flu Pink-F17 and Papillion Orange-FGRN in exhaust dyeing method. The improvement of color fastness properties, i.e. color fastness to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light were observed with the treatment of using antioxidants and UV-absorbers. There were eight samples of dyed fabrics (Four samples of 100% cotton knit fabric and four samples of 60/40 cottonpolyester blended fabrics) treated with 1% (v/v) of antioxidants i.e. Gallic acid, L-Ascorbic acid and UV absorbers i.e. 2-hydroxy-4 methoxy-benzophenone, 4-4 dimethoxy-benzophenone respectively. The treatment of antioxidant L-Ascorbic acid and UV absorber 4-4 dimethoxy-benzophenone provides satisfactory improvement of fastness properties than other antioxidants and UV absorbers. The results were mainly interpreted in terms of color strength, visual assessment of evenness and fastness ratings.

Keywords: Cotton fabric, fluorescent pigments, color fastness, adsorption, color strength, dyeing blended knit fabric.

Pages: 44-52


Authors: Tetiana Yelina, Liudmyla Halavska, Svitlana Bobrova, Volodymyr Shcherban and Tetiana Dzykovych

Abstract:One of the nowadays challenges is the development of scientific sound models of knitwear deformations. The paper is devoted to developing an algorithm for constructing a frame model of rib 1×1 knits stretched in the course or wale direction. In the process of uniaxial stretching, the shape of the sample depends on the tensile force’s orientation. A frame model of a deformed knitted structure, and an algorithm of construction of a mesh frame, are developed during the study. The frame model makes it possible to find coordinates of intermeshing points of every stitch. Then yarn characteristic points can be determined that, in turn, serve as input data for the construction of 3D model of rib 1×1 structure under uniaxial tensile deformations at the yarn level of detail. The study provides a graphical tool for formalization of geometric transformation that happen during 2D deformations of knitted structures, characterized by gradual change of the specimen’s width crosswise to the loading direction. This model is intended to become a part of a general deformation model of knitted fabrics.

Keywords: Knitwear, frame model, deformation modeling, uniaxial stretching, rib 1×1.

Pages: 53-59


Authors: Chu Dieu Huong, Dao Thi Chinh Thuy and Nguyen Thi Tu Trinh

Abstract: Microencapsulation is one of the techniques to prepare the functional textiles. In this paper the essential cinnamon oil loaded microcapsules were prepared by solvent evaporation method. In the microencapsulation process, the core - shell ratio was changed by altering the cinnamon oil content in four levels of 0.15, 0.25, 0.35 and 0.45 g while the other components remained unchanged. The microcapsule characteristics including shape and morphology, size and size distribution, microencapsulation efficiency in dependence on the core-shell ratio were investigated. The antimicrobial capacity and the fragrance durability of interlock knitted fabric coated with the elaborated microcapsules were evaluated. The results showed that cinnamon oil was microencapsulated successfully in the spherical microcapsules. When the cinnamon oil content increased, the microcapsule size decreased and the size distribution became broader, the microcapsules were more porous and more aggregate, the fragrance intensity of the fabric treated with microcapsules increased while the activity against E. coli bacteria decreased. According to the results, the microcapsules elaborated with 0.15 g of cinnamon oil was recommended for the treatment of interlock cotton knitted fabric to apply in aroma and antimicrobial textiles.

Keywords: Microencapsulation, solvent evaporation technique, fragrance textile, antimicrobial textile, healthcare textile, interlock knitted fabric.

Pages: 60-72


Authors: Olga Paraska, Hrystyna Kovtun, Lubos Hes, Serhiy Horiashchenko

Abstract: At the present stage of development of society, in pandemic conditions, people are experiencing the growing influence of man-made factors (energy flows of internal and external origin, ionizing radiation, etc.), some drugs, pathogenic microflora (fungi, viruses, bacteria, intracellular parasites). The origination of a critical mass of parasitogens can be prevented by using, in addition to traditional methods of prevention and treatment, textile materials with certain additional properties obtained by antimicrobial treatment. The aim is to study the change in the operational and hygienic properties of cellulosic materials after treatment with antimicrobials. To assess the effect of antimicrobials (biguanide derivatives and quaternary ammonium salts) on the operational and hygienic properties of cellulosic materials (cotton fabric) the following indicators were taken into account: strength, stiffness, wrinkle recovery, capillarity of materials, structural and morphological characteristics. The results of research have confirmed the possibility of using solutions of antimicrobial agents for effective processing of wares, without destructive effects on the structure of cellulosic materials; allowed to introduce a research methodology to provide antimicrobial properties of cellulosic materials of different assortment.

Keywords: Antimicrobial agents, cellulose, cotton, antimicrobial textiles, biguanide derivatives, quaternary ammonium salts.

Pages: 73-78