MATHEMATICAL MODELING OF THE THERMO-MECHANICAL FUSING PROCESS
Authors: Snezhina Angelova Andonova
Abstract: Nowadays with the introduction of microprocessor systems and other ways of automation means the development of the industrial technologies has outstripped the scientific base of many technological processes in the sewing industry. Investigating and analyzing these processes helps to solve some theoretical problems of the automation. Such scientific researches contribute to reducing the cost characteristics of the machinery and the equipment used and to improving the quality of the sewing products. One major technological process in the sewing industry is the thermo-mechanical fusing (TMF). Manual performed operations or a set of them have been automated in the process of thermo-mechanical fusing. A number of automated systems have been created that ensure synchronization in the operation of the mechanisms of conducting the TMF process. However, the automatic process control (maintaining certain levels of factors for a certain time) is accomplished by pre-setting the technological mode (i.e., preentering the levels of these factors) by the technologist. This creates persecutes for influence of subjective factor on quality. Therefore, the choice of appropriate levels of factors should be made on a scientific basis. In the context of the foregoing, the purpose of the present work is to derive a mathematical model of the TMF process through research and analysis with the help of modern control and measuring equipment.
Keywords: Mathematical modeling; thermo-mechanical fusing process.
Pages: 3-7
DESIGN OF A CONTEMPORARY MEASURING SYSTEM FOR READING THE TREADʹS TENSION IN A NEEDLE
Authors: Snezhina Angelova Andonova, Vladimir Krumov Gebov and Ivan Marinov Amudzhev
Abstract: In the sewing industry, one of the main quality criteria is the quality of the seam. The criterion for qualitative stitching is the interweaving of the threads (top and bottom) to take place in the middle of the materials being processed. One of the main factors that determines the way in which threads are intertwined is the tension of the upper thread. In modern sewing companies, the maximum tensile strength of the upper thread is manually adjusted by a disc brake. The adjustment is based on the experience and flair of the machine operator or technologist. This creates conditions for the influence of the subjective factor on the quality and productivity of sewing. Therefore, the purpose of the present work is to create a computer-integrated measuring system for determining the thread’s tension in a needle which meets contemporary requirements for speed, ability to process information flows, communication and mobile applicability. In addition, it is proposed to use a specialized servomotor to run the machine. This creates conditions to study and analyze the relationships between speed, acceleration, torque of the machine mechanism and the thread’s tension in a needle.
Keywords: The tread’s tension in a needle, contemporary measuring system.
Pages: 8-12
ANALYSIS AND PRACTICAL CRITERIA FOR ASSESSING THE UNIFORMITY OF FABRIC MASS PER UNIT AREA
Authors: Snezhina Angelova Andonova and Gaetano Rimini
Abstract: The fabrics’ mass per unit area (FMUA) is one of the main technological parameters in their production. This is one of the main reasons in the stage of fabric quality control obligatory to be checked the correspondence between the set mass per unit area /as a technological parameter in the weaving/ and the resulting mass per unit area of the finished fabric. In manufacturing practice, there are no clear rules or methodology to be followed when carrying out this inspection. The location over the fabric surface from which the specimens have to be taken is clearly formulated. However, taking the appropriate type and number of samples depends on the experience and skill of the quality controller. This creates preconditions for occurrence of subjective influence during the quality control of the final product in the weaving mills and the incoming fabrics in the sewing enterprises. The purpose of this work is to provide, through research and analysis, a practically accessible and scientifically sound method for determining the uniformity of mass per unit area along the length and width of the fabric (along warp and weft threads).
Keywords: Fabrics, mass per unit area, criteria for assessing, quality.
Pages: 13-17
STUDY OF EFFECTIVENESS OF UV ELECTROMAGNETIC WAVES SHIELDING BY TEXTILE MATERIALS
Authors: Sergey Bereznenko, Natalya Bereznenko, Viktoria Vasylenko, Nina Merezhko, Julia Koshevko, Serhiy Horiashchenko, Larisa Shpak, Olena Shkvorets, Oleksandr Saukh and Sergii Gakhovych
Abstract: The article is devoted to a study of effectiveness of ultraviolet (UV) electromagnetic radiation shielding by textile materials. Degree of protection from UV radiation and their ability to be used as a protective material was determined. Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fabric having a high degree of absorption was investigated. Its modification by Cu increased protective properties and degree of absorption from UV radiation. Positive effect of Cu on the bleached calico was determined and indicated that it energy illumination significantly decreases. New kind of “sandwich” material, which consists of different materials: 2 layers of PET fabric, 2 layers “Sharnet” and 3.0% silicon dioxide, was developed. Developed material was characterized by high level of protection from electromagnetic radiation.
Keywords: Textile materials, electromagnetic radiation, textile composite materials, electromagnetic field, shielding.
Pages: 18-23
FORMATION OF HYDROPHOBIZED LEATHER OF SPECIAL PURPOSE
Authors: Anatolii Danylkovych and Oksana Romaniuk
Abstract: The influence of the chemical composition of the alkene-maleic composition on the water resistance, hygienic and physico-mechanical properties of the hydrophobized chrome tanned leather obtained from the leather of open cow is studied. It is established that hydrophobization of the leather semi-finished product with an alkene-maleic composition significantly increases the water resistance of the obtained leathers compared to unmodified ones, which results in an increase in the water-bathing time in dynamic conditions 35-47 times depending on the thickness and stability of the elastic-plastic properties of the leather during cyclic watering-drying. It is shown that with an increase in the thickness of hydrophobized leather from 1.8 to 2.4 mm, the water vapor permeability and air permeability decrease, respectively, by 1.2-1.6 and 1.5-1.7 times, at the same time, their hygroscopy increases by 10%. The complex physico-mechanical and hygienic properties of the leather, formed by the developed technology of hydrophobization of the chrome semi-finished product using alkene-maleic composition, meet the requirements of DSTU 2726-94 Leather for shoes and DSTU 3115-95 Leather for garments. As a result of the research, a technology for hydrophobization of semi-finished chrome tanned leather can be implemented in industrial production for the manufacture of water-repellent leather for special purposes.
Keywords: Hydrophobization technology, semi-finished chrome tanning, alkene-maleic composition, special-purpose elastic leather, hygienic and elastic-plastic properties.
Pages: 24-31
READY-MADE GARMENTS SECTOR IN SAUDI ARABIA IN LIGHT OF VISION 2030
Authors: Rania Moustafa Kamel Abdulaal Debes
Abstract: Industry represents the utmost importance in building the economic and political power of nations and is evidence of progress or delay in the community Therefore, their development requires the formulation of plans, programs and industrial strategies with the interrelationships and coordination with other economic sectors. The garment sector considers one of the important sectors to the growth of many developing countries. This industrial sector contributes significantly to the total added value and employment, importance of the industry is evident the fact that it has an effective and direct impact on the national economy of any country, it is raising the standard of living, and has an important means of employing manpower. Garment industry in Saudi Arabia faces a major challenge as the Kingdom seeks to employ Saudi manpower and to settle the industrial sector in the presence of many obstacles, The Kingdom has great attention to the industrial sector through the vision of the Kingdom of 2030 (a prosperous economy and its active investment). So the researcher studied the problems and obstacles facing the garment industry in the Kingdom in the region (Eastern - Western - Central), in addition to study the needs and requirements of the industry.
Keywords: Ready-made garments - Vision 2030.
Pages: 32-36
CHALLENGES IN PRESERVING BATIK AS INDONESIA’S CULTURAL IDENTITY FACING GLOBAL DEMAND OF SUSTAINABLE ECO-FRIENDLY FABRIC
Authors:Jean Jacques Fanina and Falih Suaedi
Abstract: Globalization is nothing but worldwide interactions and exchanges, whether through technology, politics, culture or trade. With regard to trade itself, batik represents an important export unique to Indonesia, bearing a national pride but which is feared to have impacted by globalization as well as issues related to its quality as eco-friendly products. This paper has threefold purposes including the batik environmental quality and sustainability, examining the local community capacity and willingness to purchase batik products. The present research used primary data combined with secondary ones taken from interviews and questionnaires using purposive sampling with 125 respondents including batik owners in Solo, Central Java. The data were analyzed using Smart PLS Software 3.2.7 and SPSS 23 to test the reliability and validity. The results indicate that 65% of batik products are tested to have a significant correlation between consumers’ willingness and batik environmental and sustainability aspects, with a value of 0.49 which is less than p < 0.05. This research though has some limitations since only few variables were considered related to the environmental aspects. Future research is then suggested to expand further details on enlarging the data scope in other regions. This paper has a social implication as it builds a social information sharing meant to boost batik business. The concept used in this research model is new having its own originality value as it examines the batik environmental quality and sustainability.
Keywords: Preserving, batik, cultural identity, environmental quality, sustainability.
Pages: 37-42
MEASURING MOVEMENT EASE FOR CLOTHING PATTERN BY MEANS OF SPECIAL MADE SHIRT
Authors: Frederick Fung, Fatma Kalaoglu, Pelin Altay, Lubos Hes and Vladimir Bajzik
Abstract:Direct approach, interaction with volunteers and a specially made shirt to study the influence of races, height, weight and age to the wearing ease of clothing pattern, were used in this work. Two groups of volunteers have participated in the process of the research: group 1) 43 Chinese volunteers from the Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology (ZFIT) and group 2) 25 Turkish volunteers from Istanbul Technical University (ITU). Both groups went through the same procedures which were: step 1) taking upper body measurements; step 2) choosing the majority group of volunteers by the mean value of the age, weight and height and step 3) trial wearing and questionnaire. Trial shirts in the research were made of 100% plain weave cotton of 139 g/m2, thickness 0.43 mm, warp 26/cm, weft 24/cm. Results were compared and discussed.
Keywords: Clothing pattern; woven shirt; body movement; wearing ease; allowance.
Pages: 43-48
INFLUENCE OF SUPERFICIAL MODIFICATION ON ELECTRICAL CONDUCTIVITY OF POLYACRYLONITRIL FIBER
Authors: Olga Garanina, Igor Panasyuk, Ievgeniia Romaniuk and Yana Red'ko
Abstract: Purpose - to determine the influence of surface functionalization on the electrical conductivity of fibrous material on the basis of polyacrylonitrile (PAN). Fibrous based materials possess a number of PAN properties, in particular, "wooly". However, the products based on copolymers of acrylonitrile have unpleasant disadvantages, among which should be a significant accumulation of electrical charge. Radzyshevsky reaction is effective in holding surface functionalization of PAN-based material. It decreases the electrical conductivity of fibers. Thus, during exploitation of the finished product a more intense and rapid process of draining the formed electrical charges will occur, which, in turn, minimizes the number of accumulated charges.
Keywords: Superficial modification, electrical conductivity, polyacrylonitrile fiber.
Pages: 49-53
ANALYSIS OF ARTICLE PROPERTIES OF TEXTILES IN THE DESIGN OF INTERIORS OF PUBLIC SERVICE FACILITIES
Authors: Volodymyr Cherniavskyi and Victoriia Us
Abstract: The main purpose of this study is to analyze the role of the artistic properties of textiles in shaping the interior design of public service establishments and to identify the specifics of their use. The problem of this study is the need to increase the level of aesthetic organization of the internal environment of public service institutions, the comfort of their premises. To solve the article, the problems of work of the Research Center of Monumental and Decorative Art (Kyiv) in the part of textile production for interiors of public buildings are presented. The scientific novelty of the obtained results is the scientific substantiation of theoretical provisions on the use of artistic textile in the interior design of public service establishments and the identification of the basic methods of their use. On the basis of the carried out scientific researches and performed practical works, it is established that the complex interior design of public service establishments the introduction of one of the areas of synthesis of arts, namely artistic textiles will allow: to significantly increase the level of comfort of premises; improve the aesthetic organization of the internal environment; to provide establishments with services of national color.
Keywords: Component, formatting, style, styling.
Pages: 54-57
INVESTIGATION OF THE COLORFASTNESS PROPERTIES OF NATURAL DYES ON COTTON FABRICS
Authors: Shariful Islam, Shaikh Md. Mominul Alam and Shilpi Akter
Abstract: The aim of this research was to identify the color fastness properties of the natural dyes on cotton fabrics using different types of dyes like mehedy/henna, turmeric, tea leaf and pomegranate, which were cheap, easily obtainable and ecofriendly. The findings established that, mehedy/henna dye reacted with cellulose of cotton in alkaline condition to form a permanent covalent bond between the dye and the cellulose, which would not be removed by frequent washing treatment with steaming water in neutral conditions and exposed excellent color fastness properties. Mehedy dye had a reactive group that acted as an integral part of fiber and this covalent bond was formed between the dye molecules and the terminal reactive group. With necessary treatments these dyes were collected from nature in powder form and liquefied them for dyeing on 100% cotton mercerized fabrics with necessary chemicals and auxiliaries as natural dyes had affinity towards cellulosic fibers. Continuous dyeing process was carried out with the facilities of "Pad Dye Pad Steam" machine in open width form and then steamed wash to fix the colors with natural dyestuffs. Dyeing process and color fastness tests were carried out in accordance with the test method provided by AATCC and ISO standards. Dye absorption and color strength tests were conducted with the facilities of lab spectrophotometer "Data Color Spectra Flash SF600" in agreement with Kubelka Monk equation through the spectral reflectance, absorption and scattering characteristics of the samples. "Nicolet IS 50 FTIR" instrument was applied to attain the color intensity properties through the passage of Infrared Radiation (IR) within the spectrum. This research was practice based and the findings were advantageous to the personnel involved in textile industries who were responsible for dyeing the fabrics with natural dyes and to controlling of their color fastness properties.
Keywords: Natural dyes, color fastness, FTIR, spectrophotometer, dye absorption, color strength, color intensity, infrared radiation.
Pages: 58-68
THE RESEARCH OF THE PROCESS OF FORGING A ROLLING ROLLER THROUGH THE PACK OF THE FINAL FORM OF REWINDING MACHINES
Authors: О.P. Manoilenko, B.S. Zavertannyi and О.О. Akymov
Abstract: In the work a comparative analysis of the authors proposed the new design of the rolling roller in the form of segments [1] with the basic design of the rolling roller machine BP-340 [2] (Figure 1). It is established that the application of the segment roller achieves a uniform slip along the entire line of the coil forming cone, with the increase in the number of segments in direct proportion to the decrease in the maximum friction speed. The results of the study allow us to determine the optimal parameters of the segmental stiffening roller, which provide a qualitative process of forming the packing on the conical reel. They also provide a reduction in the heat and energy consumption of the friction roller in the steam, the roller, which leads to an increase in the life of the parts of the winding mechanism. Thread injury in the process of winding the conical reel is reduced.
Keywords: Packing, bobbin, bobbin holder, rolling roller, slippage, rewinding of threads, winding mechanism.
Pages: 69-73
TRAINING MODELS OF BATIK MOTIF DESIGN DEVELOPMENT FOR DESIGNERS IN MICRO ENTERPRISES
Authors: Mulyanto, Nadia Sigi Prameswari, Lili Hartono, Figur Rahman Fuad and Ni Luh Desi In Diana Sari
Abstract: This participatory action study aims to develop a training model to develop designs of batik motifs for designers in small businesses in Indonesia. Partners of batik motif design at work are batik skippers and the batik motif design has been validated by expert of batik design. Research participants consist of 6 designers and a batik skipper in small busines of Dewi Ratih batik in Pilang village, Sragen regency, Central Java province, Indonesia. There are two processes of data analysis. The first process, qualitative descriptive method is used to explore and compile the draft model of design development training motif for the designer. The second process, the method of reviewing the participatory act of the designer and the skipper to test the draft of the model produced in the first process. The results of study show that the training model of design development motifs for designers in small business includes 4 stages, namely any design needs analysis, program planning, facility and engineering infrastructure, and training measures implementation The training plans programs includes compiling training objectives, materials, media, methods and facilities. The purpose of training is to improve the quality and number of design products. Training materials consist of batik motif patterns, types of batik motifs and the meaning of batik motifs. The prepared training media includes fabrics, patterns and master motif pictures. Training methods include demonstrations with some motif drawing strategies. Training facilities consist of tables, carbon and lighting. The training is conducted based on adult education and self-learning concept, the work process is directed to the designers’ creativity development by adjusting the level of competence, and adapted to the socio-cultural environmental conditions of the society, in addition to natural environment of the local area.
Keywords: Training, development, motif, batik, designer.
Pages: 74-88
RESEARCH INTO THE USE OF ENERGY EFFICIENT PRESSES FOR CUTTING TEXTILE MATERIALS
Authors: Mykola Skyba, Dmytro Prybeha, Oleg Synyuk, Anatolii Dombrovskyi, Halyna Lobanova, Oksana Mykhailovska, Inna Soltyk, Valentyna Burak, Natalya Novikova and Dzmitry Karneyenka
Abstract: The research of features of the use energy efficient presses for cutting textile materials was conducted in the article. The experimental drive, main features of which are use of a frequency converter, microprocessor technics, sensors of control parameters of equipment work, tracking system and experimental measuring unit, was developed. The degree of power consumption of cutting presses and their maximum values of energy consumption was established. The coefficient of energy efficiency equipment for one-layer, multilayer and combined fabrics was calculated. The researches, allowed to determined coefficient of efficiency use of equipment for decks of different fabrics, were conducted. A comparison of existing and developed equipment, determined their economic efficiency and economic effect from the use of developed equipment was carried out.
Keywords: Textile materials, cutting, experimental drive, cutting press, energy efficiency, tracking system.
Pages: 89-95
PETROCHEMICAL POLYMERS AND TECHNICAL TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN THE KINGDOM OF SAUDI ARABIA
Authors: Zakiyya Abdulrazak Halawani and Maha Abdullah Al Dabbagh
Abstract: This paper aims to explore the industrial environment of petrochemicals and technical textile in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, where it links the abundant availability of synthetic polymer, as a "national wealth" of high quality and sustainability standards, with its importance in the technical textile industry. The paper discusses the future trend and economic relevance of polymers and technical textile, as well as the challenges that face this industry in Saudi Arabia. Findings of this research, have pointed out that abundant availability of raw polymers in the Kingdom contributes to accelerating the manufacturing process of technical textile. In addition, it has also indicated that the Kingdom has natural and economic environment, favorable to the technical textile industry that relies on cutting-edge technology which eliminated the need to hire great number of technicians. In addition, the manufacturing process of technical textile now relies on thermal processes instead of water as an alternative to preserve the water wealth, thus, making the Saudi natural and economic environment favorable to this industry. The research has also highlighted the Kingdom's development plans as well as its future vision that aims to promote the petrochemical industries and enhance various respective products, given their economic and investment strength that contributes to the growth of non-oil industries in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.
Keywords: Petrochemical industry, synthetic polymers, technical textile, sustainability.
Pages: 96-102
