ASSESSING THE IMPACT OF SOCIAL MEDIA IN THE CONSUMER TREND TOWARDS SUSTAINABLE CLOTHING
Authors: Hana Algahni and Maha Abdullah Al-Dabbagh
Abstract: There is a growing shift in demand towards sustainability in the clothing industry due to the negative impact the sector has on the environment with its push for excessive consumption of clothing, as well as the pace of change in clothing trends and fashion. Many factors have contributed to this, including the increased speed of production processes which have arisen as a response to higher demand for new products and the use of social media as a platform for promoting them. Relatively little is known about the harmful effects which clothing factories have on the environment, or the poor working conditions that employees have to endure. However, an increasing awareness of environmental issues and the consequences of excessive consumption in the fashion industry have begun a trend of new and innovative ways of consuming and producing fashion. It is encouraging that these new methods have helped reduce the negative impact on the environment and societies in general. Building on this cognizance, this study explores the possibility of channeling consumers’ preferences towards sustainable clothing by highlighting and promoting alternatives through the use of social media. The study highlights the existing awareness Saudi consumers have regarding the concept of sustainable clothing, as well as the key factors affecting consumers’ purchasing behavior. The study, using multiple focus groups, has identified the key deterrents to purchasing sustainable clothing including high price, lack of aesthetic design and unavailability of products at consumers’ nearby stores. The study observed that consumers demand sustainable clothes that are attractively designed, of good quality and priced reasonably. In addition, consumers have stressed the need to be sufficiently informed about such clothes on social media.
Keywords: Sustainability, consumers, preserving the environment, social media.
Pages: 3-7
INVESTIGATING THE TECHNOLOGICAL PROCESS OF ADHESION IN THE FABRICATION OF WEARABLE ANTENNAS
Authors: Snezhina Andonova, Gabriela Atanasova2 and Nikolay Atanasov
Abstract: The process of designing and creating antennas on textile materials (TM) (built into the clothing) is an extremely interesting and innovative process. In modern conditions, in most cases, the conductive elements of the wearable antennas are made of a special conductive fabric (CF), which is connected to the main TM of the sewing product. The textile materials from which the garments are made are used as substrates for the wearable antennas. The efficiency of the adhesion process between the textile substrate and the conductive fabric is one of the main factors on which the quality of wearable antennas depends. The present work aims to study and analyze the technological features of the adhesion process (between CF and the substrate) in the fabrication of wearable antennas. As a result of the conducted research, dependencies between technological factors of the adhesion process in the fabrication of wearable antennas have been established. The obtained results make it possible to choose effective operating modes according to the priorities of the real work environment.
Keywords: Process of adhesion, conductive fabric, wearable antenna.
Pages: 8-12
OPTIMIZATION OF THE THERMO-MECHANICAL FUSING PROCESS
Authors: Snezhina Angelova Andonova and Silvia Baeva
Abstract: The thermo-mechanical fusing (TMF) process is one of the main technological processes in the garment industry. Research and analysis of it is especially important for the quality of garments. Some investigations were made to determine the effect of individual parameters on the TMF process. In order to achieve optimal quality indicators for TMF with energy and time saving, is create a mathematical model of the function connecting the output parameter with the input factors. This model describes the influence of the pressure, the temperature of the pressing plates and the mass per unit area of the basic textile materials on the duration of the TMF process. Obtaining an adequate mathematical model of the process creates real conditions for its optimization. The aim of the present work is to investigate and optimize the function describing the relationship between the output parameter and the input factors in TMF.
Keywords: Optimization; thermo-mechanical fusing process.
Pages: 13-18
OPTIMIZING A FUNCTION LINKING AN QUALITY CRITERION TO INPUT FACTORS ON THE THERMO-MECHANICAL FUSING PROCESS
Authors: Snezhina Andonova and Silvia Baeva
Abstract: The subject of research in the present work are technological processes in the garment industry. Different quality criteria are established for each technological process. One of the major technological processes in the sewing industry is the process of thermo-mechanical fusing (TMF). Its optimization is not an easy task. This is due to the extreme complexity of the process. As a result of numerous studies, a mathematical model of TMF has been created. The model gives the relationship between input factors and a process quality parameter. The present work aims to optimize the function describing the relationship between the quality criterion and the input factors in TMF. A 3D graphical interpretation of the optimization has also been made.
Keywords: Thermo-mechanical fusing process, optimizing.
Pages: 19-24
MATTRESS TOPPER WITH TEXTILE ECG ELECTRODES
Authors: Branko Babušiak, Maroš Šmondrk, Ľudmila Balogová and Michal Gála
Abstract: The contribution focuses on construction design and verification of functionality of a mattress topper with incorporated textile ECG electrodes, designed for sensing, transmission and monitoring electrical activity of hearth (ECG) without direct contact with human skin. Sensoric part of the mattress topper consists of a system of active textile capacitive ECG electrodes made from electroconductive textiles incorporating microelectronics. The ECG electrodes are together with a grounding electrode integrated into construction of a cover of the mattress topper. The measuring segment comprises an independent control unit, receiving and processing the measured biomedical data and transmitting them to a computer for further processing. A prototype of a cover of the mattress topper has been developed on the base of an own proposal and its functionality has been verified experimentally by direct measurement of the ECG signal generated by a probant’s body.
Keywords: Textile electrode, capacitive sensing.
Pages: 25-28
POLYPROPYLENE AND POLYAMIDE FIBRES CONTAINING PHOTOLUMINESCENT PIGMENTS
Authors: Ľudmila Balogová, Katarína Ščasníková and Mária Húšťavová
Abstract: This article is focused on evaluating the efficiency of special protective photoluminescent pigments in polypropylene (PP) and polyamide (PA) fibres and textiles. The polypropylene and polyamide fibres have been prepared during our research by an innovative spinning technology using progressive polymer dispersions (concentrates) containing 0.01 wt.% and 0,1 wt.% of the photoluminescent organic pigment UVB, EOB3 and H-KSN. Processability of the developed fibres has been evaluated in the construction of single jersey fabrics. Degree of efficiency of the photoluminescent pigments in PP and PA fibres and fabrics has been evaluated objectively by change of color expression by means of the color coordinate b* in CIE LAB color space using ULTRASCAN XE spectrocolorimeter according to the standard STN ISO 105-J03 and by optical expression of the photoexcitation initiated by absorption of photons of electromagnetic radiation under UV lamp with a LED bulb. Intensity of optical excitation during detection under UV light creates an individual pattern enabling clear identification of the photoluminescent fibres in order to protect products against counterfeiting and ensure their authenticity and originality. There are mentioned also the results from evaluation of selected humanecological properties of PP fibres containing the photoluminescent pigments and further possibilities of their application in the textile and clothing products.
Keywords: Photoluminescent pigments, photoluminescent PP and PA fibres, photoexcitation, originality protection.
Pages: 29-34
MAIN INDICATORS OF TEXTILE ENTERPRISES` FINANCIAL SECURITY ASSESSMENT
Authors:Aktam Usmanovich Burkhanov and Bobir Ortikmirzaevich Tursunov
Abstract: The relevance of the topic of developing indicators for ensuring financial security for textile enterprises increased especially during the Covid-19 pandemic. The world has developed a situation where supply and demand simultaneously stopped. The magnitude of the global economic loss due to the Covid-19 pandemic has not yet been determined. The financial security assessment takes into account external and internal threats of the enterprise. In this paper were examined the scientific, theoretical and practical aspects of financial security of enterprises and their maintenance. Due to the specific nature of textile enterprises, financial security indicators are listed. The level of financial security of textile enterprises operating in Uzbekistan has also been assessed and analyzed, and scientific proposals and practical recommendations have been developed to ensure their financial security. Proposed methodic were implemented on private enterprise "OSBORN TEXTILE" and Joint-Venture "UZTEX TASHKENT" operating in Uzbekistan. Based on secondary accounting data of enterprises, the financial security situation of enterprises was analyzed and proposals for staving off threats were elaborated.
Keywords: Financial security, textile enterprise, liquidity, financial resources, capital, net profit.
Pages: 35-40
IMPROVEMENT OF STRUCTURE DETERMINING QUALITATIVE CHARACTERISTICS OF HYDROPHOBIZED VELOUR
Authors: Anatolii Danylkovych, Viktor Lishchuk and Arcady Shakhnovsky
Abstract:The paper studies optimization of formulation of the alkenmalein-acrylsyntane composition in manufacturing of hydrophobized nutria fur velour with high structural and defining characteristics. A modified McLean and Anderson method was used to synthesize the experimental design. Mathematical modeling approach as well as a hierarchical technique of multi-objective optimization led to the identification the optimal formulation of the filling and hydrophobicizing composition. Based on the experimental results, an adequate non-linear mathematical model “formulation of the alkenmaleinacrylsyntane composition vs properties of fur velour” was constructed. The hierarchical method of successive concessions (epsilon constrained method) allowed to optimize the composition formulation. The optimal composition comprises 37.7 % m/m of alkenmalein polymer, 34.0 % m/m of polyacrylic emulsion Melio Resin A-821, and 28.3 % m/m of BNS synthane tannin. Developed technology ensures high consumer properties of nutria fur velour. The studies of water resistance have shown a significant increase in resistance of fur velour to the action of water in dynamic conditions. The developed technology has the great benefit of increasing the yield of fur velour area by 6.7% in comparison with the intermediate product of chrom-aluminum retanning. Taking into account considerable porosity and heterogeneity of the fiber structure of the raw material, an increase in yield is significant. The optimized formulation of the filling and hydrophobicizing composition can be used effectively in the technologies of manufacturing limed hide and leather materials of high water resistance. With the combination of properties the obtained hydrophobized nutria velour is suitable for the production of pickled leather products, which will be operated in extreme conditions.
Keywords: Nutria velour, filling, velour properties, hydrophobization, McLean-Anderson method, multicriteria optimization, hierarchical method of successive concessions.
Pages: 41-48
REVIEW OF MEN’S SHIRT PATTERN DEVELOPMENT FOR THE LAST 100 YEARS
Authors: Frederick Tungshing Fung, Lubos Hes and Vladimir Bajzik
Abstract: From the 19th century until now, men’s shirt pattern has been evolving and changing for the comfort and style that people need. No matter the fit of the shirt pattern is loose or tight, the style is fancy or practical; the pattern is always traced back to the original try and error draping techniques. This article is a look back on how the shirt pattern has been developed in the last hundred years and a discussion on how to predict the future development of shirt pattern will be in the conclusion.
Keywords: Clothing pattern, men’s shirt, fit, pattern development, wearing comfort.
Pages: 49-58
EFFECT OF MULTIPLE USE ON THE DURABILITY OF COMPRESSION SOCKS
Authors: EmadEldin Sayed Gohar and Adnan Mazari
Abstract: Compression socks are widely used for medical purposes. The socks are classified as three pressure classes with different sizes according to circumference of leg. These socks are daily worn for complete and due to hygiene issues it’s washed every day as well. The research work shows the effect of washing and multiple wearing on the durability of compression socks. There is significant decrease of pressure in terms multiple wearing and there was insignificant difference from the washing cycles. The results are beneficial for the patient who regularly uses the compression socks.
Keywords: Socks, compression socks, pressure.
Pages: 59-64
NONWOVENS MADE OF RECYCLED CARBON FIBRES (rCF) USED FOR PRODUCTION OF SOPHISTICATED CARBON FIBRE-REINFORCED PLASTICS
Authors: Katharina Heilos, Holger Fischer, Marcel Hofmann and Andrea Miene
Abstract: A qualified value-added chain for the re-use of recycled carbon fibres (rCF) as nonwovens in sophisticated fibre-reinforced plastics has been set up within the research project RecyCarb. The progress in processing technology was accompanied by setting up a reliable scheme of quality assurance. This article focuses (1) on the use of different web formation and bonding technologies to produce nonwovens (carding / airlay), ranging from highly-oriented to quasi-isotropic nonwoven structures, and (2) on the achievable mechanical properties of fibre-reinforced plastics produced using different processes from a range of typical rCF lots. Press-moulded composites reached tensile strength of approx. 530 MPa (CD) & 330 MPa (MD), and Young’s moduli of 50 GPa (CD) and 31 GPa (MD). Similar values were obtained by resin-transfer moulding (RTM). Prepreg-based composites displayed tensile strength up to 330 MPa and Young’s modulus up to 29 GPa. In addition, first experiments showed that repeated recycling of carbon fibres is possible with minor loss of stability.
Keywords: Recycled carbon fibres (rCF); nonwoven; carbon fibre-reinforced plastics (CFRP); lightweight construction; mechanical properties.
Pages: 65-75
STUDY OF STRUCTURE AND THERMAL CHARACTERISTICS OF STYRENE ACRYLIC POLYMER FILMS LACRYTEX 430 FILLED OF TITANIUM DIOXIDE
Authors: Ihor Horokhov, Irina Kulish, Tatyana Asaulyuk, Yulia Saribyekova, Sergey Myasnykov, Olga Semeshko and Natalia Skalozubova
Abstract: The research is devoted to study the influence of nanosized titanium dioxide on the structure of polymer films formed from styrene acrylic polymer for the development of fire retardant finishing compositions for textile materials. An aqueous dispersion of styrene acrylic polymer Lacrytex 430 and nanosized titanium dioxide were used as the objects of study. Standardized methods have been applied to study the stability of suspensions of aqueous systems and the structure formation, surface morphology, degree of thermal destruction of filled and unfilled with titanium dioxide styrene acrylic polymer films. The degree of dispersion of the nanofiller in the styrene acrylic polymer matrix is determined. The morphology of the formed films is considered and the optimal concentration of titanium dioxide in the polymer film is determined. The degree of interaction between the components of the mixture was estimated and it is shown that titanium dioxide does not change the structural parameters of the filled and unfilled polymer at a concentration of 1-2 wt.%. Increased concentration of titanium dioxide negatively affects both on the density of crosslinking of the polymer units and on the molecular weight of the polymer chain segment due to the agglomeration of titanium dioxide nanoparticles in the polymer matrix, which can create stress concentration zones and suppress the effect of interfacial interaction of the components. Considering that the introduction of fillers into polymers can change the temperature characteristics of polymer composite materials, the process of thermooxidative decomposition of formed polymer films and the formation of coke residue have been studied. It is determined that the introduction of nanosized titanium dioxide promotes coke formation and increases the thermal stability of the filled polymer film.
Keywords: Styrene acrylic polymer, polymer film, nanoparticles, titanium dioxide, thermal degradation, coke forming ability, fire retardant finishing compositions.
Pages: 76-81
DESIGNING FILTERING HALF-MASKS
Authors: S. Cheberyachko, L. Tretiakova, M. Kolosnichenko and N. Ostapenko
Abstract: This work offers an approach to the design of the filter half-mask of a dust respirator with taking into account the anthropometric characteristics of faces of personnel. The ways of obtaining half-mask contours and construction of the obturation band are considered. Two designs of the front parts of the respirators are proposed, which are in comparison with each other by the size of the contact area of the obturator and the face and the calculated values of the coefficient of protection. Based on the data obtained, it is determined that half-masks constructed with consideration for the width and length of the face have better protective performance than with consideration for the length of the face and lips.
Keywords: Filter half-mask, obturator circuit, protection factor, dimensional features of the face.
Pages: 82-89
STUDY OF DOMINANT QUALITY INDICATORS OF MATERIALS AND DESIGNS OF RAILROAD CONDUCTORS’ UNIFORMS
Authors: Olena Kolosnichenkо, Mykola Yakovlev, Iryna Prykhodko-Kononenko, Larysa Tretyakova, Natalia Ostapenko, Kalina Pashkevich and Galyna Ripka
Abstract: The article is devoted to the study on determining the basic requirements for the design of conductors’ uniforms of passenger rail transport. To solve the problems associated with highlighting the most significant indices for the materials and design features of individual products, the use of expert evaluation method has been proposed. A group of experts has been identified, consisting of clothing design experts, managers and representatives of Ukrzaliznytsia. The most essential indicators for materials, constructions and manufacturing technologies, using the method of ranking with normalized coefficients, have been determined on the example of men's and women's uniform suits. To verify the results, the degree of concordance of experts' opinions on the coefficient of concordance has been determined. The calculated values of the coefficients of concordance for all the considered problems are in the range W=0.69÷0.78, that indicates a high level of experts’ agreement. Ranking identifies the sixteen most significant requirements for materials, structures, technologies and cost. Advanced models of women's and men's uniform suits with improved ergonomic and aesthetic performance have been proposed.
Keywords: Uniform, expert estimation method, material quality indicators, design uniforms, rank correlation of indicators, coefficient of concordance.
Pages: 90-96
DESIGNING THE AUTHOR'S COLLECTION OF WOMEN'S CLOTHING WITH THE USE OF PAINTING AS THE SOURCE OF INSPIRATION
Authors: Larysa Krasniuk and Oleksandr Troyan
Abstract: The search for ideas with the aim of creating new goods is an important problem of designer's projects. In this paper it is demonstrated that the sources of inspiration help designers to create elements and principles of the author's design. The major types of inspiration sources are determined, and the roles of the source of inspiration as well as its effect on the creative search for original ideas in clothing design are revealed. The purpose of this investigation is to elaborate the concept of the author's collection of women's clothing on the basis of application of paintings as the source of inspiration. Diverse techniques of transforming a particular inspiration source – a painting – from the sketch project to the ready-made article are suggested.
Keywords: Author's collection of clothing, sources of inspiration, transformation of the painting, print.
Pages: 97-102
DEVELOPMENT OF INNOVATIVE TECHNOLOGIES FOR DESIGNFORMATION OF WOMEN'S HATS FROM FABRIC IN LAWE
Authors: Nikolay Kushevskiy, Olena Yakymchuk, Roman Romanenko, Oleh Polishchuk, Olena Palienko, Svetlana Matviichuk, Nataliia Boksha, Svitlana Lozovenko, Larysa Bilotska and Oksana Vodzinska
Abstract: The article is devoted to the development of innovative technologies of design-forming of women's hats from fabrics in a special working environment. It is suggested to use water as a working environment, which creates a different forming effort. Seven original methods of hydroforming with the use of LAWE have been developed to ensure the quality design-formation of the three-dimensional parts of women's fabric hats. To test and implement the developed methods, appropriate experimental equipment is designed and features of its work are given. Based on the experimental studies, it is determined the optimal parameters for forming volumetric details of women's hats for each method. Examples of formed hats on the specified equipment are given. The prospects of further researches for work improvement of the developed equipment are offered.
Keywords: LAWE, women's hats, formation of the details from the fabric, methods of formation, pressure of LAWE, forming element, forming chamber.
Pages: 103-110
ANALYTICAL ASSESSMENT OF THE APPAREL INDUSTRY IN UKRAINE: PROBLEMS AND OPPORTUNITIES
Authors: Oksana Morhulets, Svitlana Arabuli, Olena Nyshenko and Arsenii Arabuli
Abstract: The article describes the current state and dynamics of business activity of the apparel industry in Ukraine. The quantitative and qualitative indicators of the activity of apparel enterprises in the period 2015-1019 are analyzed. The strengths and weaknesses of the Ukrainian apparel industry have been identified. It is shown that Ukrainian apparel manufacturers can be competitive both in the domestic and international markets. Geographical proximity to Europe and signed Free Trade Agreement with EU giving Ukraine a clear advantage against producers in Central Asia and Far East. However, there are a number of problems facing the apparel industry. Among the main problems are the improvements of the management system of the apparel enterprise. In article was proposed to use outsourcing services as one of the ways to improve the apparel enterprise management system.
Keywords: Apparel industry, problems, opportunities, management system, outsourcing.
Pages: 111-118
EVALUATION OF FEELING OF COMFORT OF MILITARY SPORTSWEAR USERS DURING PHYSICAL ACTIVITY
Authors: Jana Švecová, Radka Lopourová and Simona Halatová
Abstract: The article deals with the evaluation of the feeling of comfort of the user of the equipment during his physical activity. It is a subjective evaluation of the clothing comfort of a soldier dressed in selected military sportswear while simulating physical activity on an exercise bike, based on a questionnaire construction. The aim of this article was to test selected samples of sporting military equipment together with other suitable materials in order to get the closest possible experience with testing of military clothing in real conditions. Based on the evaluation of the results of the simulated load of tested soldiers to suggest a possible upgrade of equipment to improve the utility properties of sports equipment and ensure optimal conditions of clothing comfort of soldiers. The results are a source of important information for the stage of design and innovation in the introduction of new sports gear, leading to improved military equipment.
Keywords: Clothing comfort, proband, sports military clothing, subjective evaluation.
Pages: 119-126
INFLUENCE OF PLASTICIZER AND BIOPLASTICIZER ON THE STRUCTURE AND MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF THE PLA FIBRES
Authors: Zita Tomčíková, Anna Ujhelyiová, Katarína Holcová and Marcela Hricová
Abstract: Nowadays, when great accent is placed on the ecology and thus also on biodegradable materials, the polylactic acid (PLA) proves to be one of the prospective materials for packaging and fibre industries. Brittleness of the PLA has a negative effect on the physical-mechanical properties of the fibres, which prevents its mass utilization in this field. Therefore, new solutions to reduce the brittleness of PLA fibres are constantly being sought. In this work, the influence of plasticizer and bioplasticizer contents on the structure and mechanical properties of PLA fibres was studied and compared. The advantage of the bioplasticizer is to ensure complete degradation of the PLA fibres under special conditions. From the structural properties, the birefringence and crystallinity were investigated and from the mechanical properties, the tensile strength, elongation at break and Young's modulus were studied. The modified PLA fibres were prepared by a discontinuous process of spinning and drawing.
Keywords: Modified PLA fibres, structure, mechanical properties, plasticizer, bioplasticizer.
Pages: 127-131
FIBRES FROM BIODEGRADABLE POLYMERS AND ADDITIVES FOR TEXTILE APPLICATIONS
Authors: Anna Ujhelyiová, Kristína Baníková, Jozef Ryba, Roderik Plavec, Veronika Hrabovská and Marcela Hricová
Abstract: Poly-(lactic acid) (PLA) is a biodegradable polymer from renewable resources produced as potential alternative to the synthetic polymers. One of the alternative applications is a preparation of PLA fibres. The PLA fibres prepared by classical spinning technology do not have good mechanical properties, especially elongation at the break. The prepared PLA fibres are very brittle with bad processability. The modification of the PLA fibres with plasticisers and additives/nanoadditives is one of the perspective ways for improvement of processability of the PLA fibres and increasing of multifunctional properties of these fibres. This work focuses on the preparation of fibres from various types of PLA modified with nucleating agent talc. The effect of content of various PLAs and additives on rheological properties of blends was evaluated. The thermal, mechanical and thermo-mechanical properties of prepared fibres from PLAs and modifiers were monitored.
Keywords: Poly-(lactic acid) fibres, talc, rheological behaviour, viscosity, mechanical and thermal properties.
Pages: 132-137
