INFLUENCES OF THE OPERATING PARAMETERS OF EMBROIDERY STITCHES ON ELECTRICAL PROPERTIES OF THE CONDUCTIVE THREADS
Authors: Amal Abdullah Albishri, Emad El-Din Sayed Gohar and Marwa Mohamed Tharwat
Abstract: The conductive threads are very crucial and essential parts of smart textiles. However, there is still a lack of information in general about the operating parameters of embroidery with conductive threads and their influences on communication among electronic components in the e-textiles product. In this article, silver-coated conductive threads have been usage in the fabrication of 4 embroidered designs with two different stitch types (Tatami, Running) and two lengths for each stitch (4 mm, 6 mm). The electrical characteristics were measured and determined in the frequency domain from 100 kHz to 120 MHz. The impedance and resistivity of threads are determined also using the AC voltages at three different frequencies 100 kHz, 1 MHz and 10 MHz. The applied voltages were 0.0 -1.0 volts through thirty (30) steps. The most important results are summarized in the polarization of silver, which is contributing to the measured impedance values so that all stitch types with different lengths have the same behavior and trend. The designs of shapes by embroidered stitches are acting as perfect resistor at low frequencies while they are acting as perfect inductor at high frequencies. The 6 mm stitches length in all stitch types provides low resistance rather than 4 mm stitches against the common prediction. Therefore, these designs of embroidered shapes by certain stitches could be a good potential for antenna applications.
Keywords: Conductive thread, e-textiles, wearable electronics, embroidery.
Pages: 3-19
AIR PERMEABILITY AND STRUCTURAL PARAMETERS OF SINGLE JERSEY KNITTED FABRIC
Authors: Marie Havlová
Abstract: The main aim of our study is to investigate the influence of the basic structural parameters on the air permeability value of single jersey weft knitted fabric. A specific experimental set of knitted fabrics was used for this purpose – the yarns of two materials (viscose and polyester) and two yarn counts (20 tex and 29.5 tex) were used, each of these four yarns was used to manufacture a set of single jersey knitted fabric samples of several different densities. Altogether 22 different knitted samples were prepared and used for investigation the basic relationships between air permeability and the structural parameters of the knitted fabrics. Primary and secondary structural parameters such as area of unit cell, thickness, planar weight or porosity were investigated. Porosity was calculated according to three different theoretical models. Our results showed that as the thickness and planar weight of the knitted fabric increase, its air permeability decreases. As the porosity of the knitted fabric increases, its air permeability increases, with the value of air permeability responding most sensitively to the porosity expressed as a proportion of the open area of the knitted fabric. The results also showed that the relationship between air permeability and porosity as well as the relationship between air permeability and planar weight are not completely linear. Linear relationship was found between the air permeability of the knitted fabric and the ratio of its porosity and its planar weight.
Keywords: Air permeability, knitted fabric, structural parameters, porosity, planar weight.
Pages: 20-27
THE RELATION BETWEEN SIGNS OF GARMENTS AND FASHION MARKETING STRATEGY, A LITERATURE REVIEW
Authors: Luisa-Fernanda Hernández-Gallego and Manuela Escobar-Sierra
Abstract: Marketing practitioners misunderstand how consumers purchase and wear clothes. For academics, this lack of knowledge is a consequence of disregarding the symbolic aspect of garments and represents the main reason for the marketing inefficiencies. Those ideas lead us to wonder how signs of garment related to fashion marketing strategy. We follow a sequential mixed-method. First, we develop a bibliometric analysis, then we use those results to our content analysis, and the result is our discussion status. Afterward, we present our theoretical lenses, which we build following a qualitative approach. Also, we propose a conceptual model to fulfill the lack of knowledge about symbolic aspects in garment through a conceptual relation between signs of garment and fashion marketing strategy. Finally, our literature review shows that symbolic aspects help to create value for clients. For this reason, we recommend for future marketing research develop empirical verification of our structural model.
Keywords: Sign, garment, strategy, marketing, fashion, literature review.
Pages: 28-42
RIB KNITTED FABRICS WITH TUCK STITCHES: STRUCTURE AND PROPERTIES
Authors: Olena Kyzymchuk, Olha Stefashyna, Liudmyla Melnyk, Oleksandr Holovnia, Svitlana Arabuli and Daryna Levytska
Abstract: Knitted fabrics with tuck stitches are widely used in the manufacturing of knitwear, hats, scarves, etc. due to the variety of patterned effects that can be obtained. It should be noted that the structure and properties of the knitted fabric will depend on the number of tuck stitches in the structure. The goal of this work is to develop a few types of knitted fabrics with different content of tuck stitches and to analyze the effect of tuck stitches on the structural characteristics and deformation properties of the fabric. Two sets of fabrics were produced on a 10-gauge flat-bed knitting machine from 32x2 tex half wool yarn. They are differed by basic interlooping and the number of tuck stitches in the repeat. Dependencies of the structural parameters as well as deformation properties on the number of tuck stitches in the interlooping repeat were set up. They should be taking into account when designing new products from these and similar fabrics.
Keywords: Rib knitted fabric, tuck stitch, deformation component, full deformation, shrinkage, structure.
Pages: 43-52
DETERMINATION OF COMFORT PRESSURE OF SHOES ON HUMAN FEET
Authors: Maryna Leshchyshyn
Abstract: The need to wear comfortable shoes has always been a topical issue for the consumer, but in mass factory production it is not always possible to meet the criteria of shoe comfort for each user due to the individual structure and biomechanical characteristics of his foot. To preserve the natural anatomical structure of the foot in its satisfactory functioning, it is necessary to provide comfort and protect the foot from the environment during the operation of the shoe. On the basis of the comparative analysis of results of anthropometric researches of feet and subjective feelings of footwear comfort the expediency to perfect the footwear designing process by the individual order with the use of a universal shoe modeltransformer is proved. These studies provide an opportunity to explore the subjective feelings of foot comfort in footwear, and ensure the production of high quality shoes to individual order using the universal shoe model transformer and a computer system based on an Arduino Uno microcontroller. The results of studies of individual sensations of pressure on the feet by shoes in the state of standing and walking are presented. A study of a two-factor experiment of the dependence of pressure parameters at anthropometric points of the rise and the heel of the foot is presented. The regression equation of the dependence of the shoe comfort level on pressure acting on the foot is obtained. The mathematical model of fitting the shoe model-transformer on the foot is presented.
Keywords: Anthropometric parameters of the foot, materials, comfort, model-transformer, shoes, computer system, pressure, modulus of elasticity.
Pages: 53-61
QUALITATIVE INDICATORS OF A FIBROUS SEMI-FINISHED PRODUCT (WOOL) FOR THE BASE OF A LAYERED NON-WOVEN MATERIAL
Authors:Umida Mirzarakhimovna Maksudova, Dilnoza Ziyovutdinovna Pazilova, Нamidulla Ne'matullayevich Ahmadov, Mavjuda Saidaliyevna Niyazova and Zokhid Normatovich Abdurakhimov
Abstract: With the aim of creating a lining nonwoven laminate for lining winter shoes, the article presents the results of studies of the properties of sheep wool as one of the layers of a composite material. Substantiated: classification of wool, taking into account the countries of origin; technological characteristics of woolen fibrous semi-finished product; for the basis of a layered nonwoven material, semi-coarse sheep wool with an average fiber fineness of 14.5-60 microns and quality class 60 is justified.
Keywords: Nonwovens, wool, felt, composition, fiber, classification, fineness, semi-finished product, technology, contamination.
Pages: 62-65
MAGNETIC NANOTECHNOLOGY IN THE PRODUCTION OF FOAMED TEXTILE MATERIALS FOR MEDICAL PURPOSES
Authors: Mykola Riabchykov, Alexandr Alexandrov, Yuriy Sychov, Tetiana Popova and Svitlana Nechipor
Abstract:A new technology for creating foam materials for medical purposes is proposed. This process involves the addition of magnetite nanoparticles followed by foaming under magnetic field conditions. An experimental device that allows to regulate the magnetic field voltage has been created. Experimental studies have shown that under conditions of magnetite content of 0.1-0.3%, magnetic field strength of 1-3.10-3 Tesla significantly improves the performance of the foamed material. The variance of the size of the foam cavities decreases. The number of cavities and the degree of foaming increases. In the case of magnetic field voltage regulation, the average cavity size can be predicted. Ensuring the required size of the cavities creates the preconditions for the manufacture of wound dressings with the specified parameters of exudates removal.
Keywords: Foamed textile materials, nanotechnology, magnetite, statistical distribution, magnetic technology.
Pages: 66-71
THE INFLUENCE OF THE CURVATURE RADIUS OF THE GUIDING SURFACE ON THE TENSION OF POLYETHYLENE AND POLYAMIDE COMPLEX YARNS DURING PROCESSING ON WEAVING AND KNITTING MACHINES
Authors: Volodymyr Shcherban’, Oksana Kolysko, Gennadiy Melnyk, Marijna Kolysko, Ludmila Halavska and Yuriiy Shcherban’
Abstract: Researches that have been carried out to determine polyethylene and polyamide multifilament yarns tension when interacting with guides and operative parts (of large and small curvature) of looms and knitting machines, helped to establish the mechanism for the process of increase in polyethylene and polyamide multifilament yarns tension after the guide which can be attributed to friction forces in the contact area. It has been proved that increase in tension is explained by varying contact angle between polyethylene and polyamide multifilament yarns and large curved and small curved guides; notably, actual angle for multifilament yarns will be larger comparing to nominal one due to distortion of yarn’s cross-section in the contact area. Based on experimental researches for polyethylene and polyamide multifilament yarns, regression dependencies were obtained between the value of tension for polyethylene and polyamide multifilament yarns after the guides and tension before a guide, radius of guide surface curve, a contact angle. Analysis of these regression dependencies allowed to establish extreme values of guide’s curve radius at which tension will have the minimum value. As a result, it has been made possible (still at the initial stage of the computer aided manufacturing and usage of recursion) to determine polyethylene and polyamide multifilament yarns tension before fabric and knit formation area depending on geometric and design parameters of equipment and their mechanical and physical properties. Thereby leading to decrease in polyethylene and polyamide multifilament yarns breakages, increase in looms and knitting machines performance due to reduced downtime, and improvement of quality of manufactured fabric and knit. Whereby, we can state that the offered engineering solutions are practically attractive. In particular, the latter deal with determining most suitable geometrical dimensions of guide and operative parts of looms and knitting machines, at which output tension will have minimum necessary value. The procedure has been determined to regulate directionally the process of change in yarns tension at looms and knitting machines by fitting of geometrical dimensions of large curved and small curved guides for polyethylene and polyamide multifilament yarns.
Keywords: Polyethylene and polyamide multifilament yarn, tension, large curved and small curved guides, contact angle, guide’s curve radius.
Pages: 72-81
EVALUATION OF COLOR HARMONY ON THE SCALE OF PSYCHOLOGICAL PERCEPTION IN FAMILY LOOK CLOTHES
Authors: А. Slavinska, O. Syrotenko, V. Mytsa and O. Dombrovska
Abstract: The fashion trend of Family look clothes is a complicated system of a complex wardrobe. It requires the definition of the laws of compositional construction of the family clothing system on the basis of harmonization of the stylistic unity of the multi-colored composition of products and needs an assessment of the psychological comfort of the consumer in social environment. For this purpose the following tasks are solved: gender and age categories of restriction of color combinations’ variants of clothes in Family look style are defined; the algorithm of verification of means of composition in color series of family wardrobe models is developed; communicative methods of control of harmonization means of color compositions are developed. The article considers 5 basic principles of identification of the figurative decision of models of clothes from the point of view of their compositional unity (an image, color, accessories, style). Rules for combining family wardrobe based on the number of family members, their gender, age and style have been developed. It is established that the wardrobe is formed of different types of combinations: parallel, cross, mixed (collage), triangle. Based on the typology of the personality image type by O. Petrova, the typology of the color type of behavior by M. Luscher and the typology of temperaments by G. Eysenk, the categories of color formation of the Family look style are formed. On the example of the portfolio of models selected for the color type "green", image type "prestigious" the method of determining the harmony of color combinations of clothes in the Family look system by the ratio of its filling areas is verified. An algorithm for controlling the process of harmonization of the color composition of the Family look style according to the 7 phases of evaluation of the means of composition is developed, which is displayed by the level control scheme. An algorithm for forming a wardrobe in the style of Family look is developed and its practical application is shown on the example of developing different wardrobe options.
Keywords: Family look style, harmony of color, color types, algorithm, identity, complex wardrobe, collage of models.
Pages: 82-93
WOMEN'S EXPRESSION IN CONTEMPORARY BATIK FABRIC IN INDONESIA
Authors: Eko Sugiarto, Triyanto, Meina Febriani and Putri Khoirin Nashiroh
Abstract: UNESCO's recognition of Indonesian textiles (batik) as a cultural heritage provides wider opportunities for the batik industry. The fact that needs to be known is that batik craftsmen in Indonesia are dominated by women, but research on batik textiles so far have not explored femininity in Indonesian batik motifs. This study aims to analyze the design of feminine-style batik motifs by Indonesian craftswomen. The data on batik motifs was collected in three cities, namely Pekalongan, Semarang and Solo. The visual analysis was prioritized in this research by tracing batik work documents from the aspect of the motif structure, the source of the idea and the value of feminism. The results showed that making batik fabric was dominated by women. Feminism-style batik motifs in Indonesia are dominated by plant objects (particularly flowers). The elements of red, green, light brown and blue are the most widely used than other colors. The femininity of batik motifs is depicted in an organic look that is presented in various curved lines. Femininity in batik motifs is often found, particularly in contemporary batik, which tries to break away from the rigidity of traditional batik.
Keywords: Contemporary batik, femininity, visual craft women expression.
Pages: 94-99
PREPARATION, CHARACTERIZATION AND COLOR PERFORMANCE OF PLA PHOTOLUMINESCENT FIBRES
Authors: Z. Tomčíková, Š. Krivoš, F. Hrbáľ and D. Rerková
Abstract: Polylactic acid (PLA) is one of the fastest growing biodegradable polymers on the market. Consumers' preference of environmentally friendly products from biodegradable polymers but higher costs and lower quality of products may prevent their greater use compared to synthetic products. Therefore, there is an effort to modified PLA properties via different methods like using modifiers, blending, copolymerization and physical treatments. This article presents the preparation process of modified PLA fibres by an organic photoluminescent pigment as well as the preparation of knitted fabrics where the color efficiency of the pigment was detected by UV lamp illumination. For comparison, an unmodified PLA fibre and knitted fabric were prepared in the same manner as modified PLA fibres. To determine the supermolecular structure parameters of the fibres the methods of birefringence, sound velocity in fibres and crystallinity were used. The basic mechanical properties of the modified PLA fibres were expressed through the tenacity and elongation at break. Also, the overall fineness of the fibres has been determined. Results confirmed that the PLA can be used as a carrier of organic protective photoluminescent pigment without any impact on the structure and mechanical properties modified PLA fibres.
Keywords: PLA fibres, photoluminescent pigment, structure, mechanical properties, color performance.
Pages: 100-105
USAGE OF AUGMENTED REALITY TECHNOLOGIES IN THE LIGHT INDUSTRY
Authors: Iryna Zasornova, Oksana Zakharkevich, Alexander Zasornov, Svetlana Kuleshova, Julia Koshevko and Tetiana Sharan
Abstract: The article considers the use of augmented reality technologies. The analysis of directions of development of AR technologies in light industry is carried out. The dynamics of the development of augmented reality technologies in the garment industry and the fashion industry over the last decade is considered using the tools of Google Trends and SE Ranking. A study was conducted among women and men on awareness of the use of QR codes in light industry. The constructive-technological solution of a cuff of a sleeve of a women's jacket with use of AR technologies is offered. Men's pants are made using a QR-code on the label, which contains a link to the site TKSHV – Market.
Keywords: Augmented reality, QR-code, apparel, fashion industry, technology.
Pages: 106-1118
