Vlákna a textil, 30(1), 2023

SPECIAL ISSUE
dedicated to the 23rd International Conference STRUTEX 2022 "Structure and Structural Mechanics of Textile"
held on November 30 – December 2, 2022 in Liberec, Czech Republic


EFFECT OF TENSILE FATIGUE CYCLIC LOADING ONPERFORMANCE OF TEXTILE-BASED STRAIN SENSORS

Authors: SAJJADIEH SABA, SAFARI FATEME, GHALEBI BAHARE AND SHANBEH MOHSEN

Abstract: Textile-based strain sensors are a potential platform used in wearable devices for sensing and. 8 sensors containing monitoring the human body. These sensors not only have all the conventional sensors benefits but also, they are low-cost, flexible, light-weight, and easily adopted with three-dimensional shape of the body. Moreover, recent research has shown they are the best candidates for monitoring human’s body motion. In this study, the effect of tensile fatigue cyclic loads on performance and sensitivity of textilebased strain sensors was investigated polyester/stainless steel staple fiber blend yarn as a conductive part with different structures were produced. The sensors varied in weft and warp density, percentage of stainless steel in conductive yarn, the number of conductive yarns, and weave pattern. The sensors were subjected to 500 cyclic loads operations and their tensile properties and sensitivity were investigated and compared before and after applying tensile fatigue cyclic loads. The results showed the textile-based strain sensors containing less percentage of stainless-steel fiber, lower number of conductive yarns, twill weave pattern and lower density in warp and weft direction have shown better performance after tensile fatigue cyclic loads.

Keywords: Tensile fatigue cyclic loading; Strain sensor; Smart textile; Conductive yarn; Woven fabric; Sensitivity.

Pages: 5-10


INVESTIGATION OF THE USAGE OF ALTERNATIVE NEW GENERATION ECO-FRIENDLY FIBER BLENDS IN SYNTHETIC BASED DENIM FABRICS

Authors: ŞARAPNAL DILEK1 AND BABAARSLAN OSMAN

Abstract: Polyester yarn is made from post-consumer waste such as bottles, fabrics, etc., in the composition of polyester ethylene terephthalate (PET). Polyester (mainly polyethylene terephthalate, PET) is the most commonly employed textile fibre with over 50% share in total production of textile fibres. Pla is a biobased and biodegradable polymer produced from renewable resources. PLA is also a thermoplastic aliphatic compostable polyester. In this study, 75% Cotton - 25% PLA, 75% Lyocell - 25% PLA and 75% Cotton - 25% PET blended yarns were produced as rigid, corespun and dualcore in the ring spinning system .The fabrics were weaved with produced yarn. In the finishing processes, some of the fabrics were treated with caustic and some of the fabrics were only washed. Fabrics containing PLA and PET were compared with each other. Fabrics containing PLA and PET fiber were evaluated in terms of strength, elasticity, abrasion and pilling performances. Although the weft tensile and tear properties of Cotton-PLA blended fabrics are lower than Lyocell-PLA and Cotton-PET blends, it has been indicated that PLA blended yarns can be used as an alternative to PET based yarns and fabrics.

Keywords: Pla; Polyester; Lyocell; Blend Yarn and Fabrics; Fabric Performance.

Pages: 11-17


WEAVEABILITY OF SPACER/DISTANCE FABRICS WITH HIGH PERFORMANCE FIBERS ON A TECHNICAL DOUBLE RAPIER JACQUARD WEAVING LOOM USING LANCETS

Authors: KOCAMAN RECEP TÜRKAY, PUTZKE ENRICO AND FICKER FRANK

Abstract: In this study, a technical double rapier weaving loom was used for the weaving of spacer/distance fabrics with a polyester multifilament based ground warp, binding yarns and with polyester and basalt weft yarns. The spacing of the distance fabrics was achieved by using lancets. Four different bindings were developed and three different lancet heights have been used for the spacing. Thus developed spacer/distance fabrics showed uniform spacing between layers with a total thickness from 11.1 mm to 18.5 mm and were characterized according to their compressive resistance and energy absorption properties.

Keywords: Woven spacer fabrics; Distance fabrics; Double rapier; Jacquard; Lancet.

Pages: 18-23


SIMULATION OF THE SEGMENT FILLING INSERTION FABRICS AT THE YARN LEVEL

Authors: FANG JIAHUI, KYOSEV YORDAN KONSTADINOV, LI YULING1 AND MA YANXUE

Abstract: Fabrics with segment filling insertion are finding application in several traditional luxurious textiles, clothing, and in the latest time as well for smart textiles. Segment filling allows the integration of conductive yarns for contacting areas, keeping the textile character of the structures. This work presents a method for 3D modeling woven structures with segment filling at the yarn level. The pattern image is analyzed by an image processing tool, written in Python, and used to create the initial weaving information. After that, the different regions are filled with suitable preselected weave types, such as plain, twill, or others. Finally, this data is used to compute the 3D coordinates of the weft and warp yarns, and saved in a suitable format. The 3D visualization is done by the TexMind Viewer, which allows its advanced version export in various formats for FEM, CFD, and other computations.

Keywords: Segment filling insertion fabrics; Yarn level; Product development; 3D simulation.

Pages: 24-29


NUMERICAL MODELLING OF TEXTILE STRUCTURES: POTENTIAL AND LIMITS

Authors: BOŇKOVÁ KAROLÍNA

Abstract: Numerical modelling, namely finite element modelling, is a standardised tool in many branches of engineering. In textile engineering, due to the complexity of the structure, many limitations occur in using this approach. Despite the limitations the finite element modelling of textiles has huge potential for the future. This contribution deals with FE modelling of tensile test in wale and course direction of single jersey knitted fabric. The meso level of the structure was chosen for the model, so it could be possible to track the behaviour of yarn interlacement during the simulated deformation. The virtual model was created according to parameters of single jersey knitted fabric sample, which was produced from polyester monofilament. By using monofilament instead of staple yarn, contacts between fibres in yarn could be excluded in FE model preparation. Two different computational programs were used for simulations – MSC Marc Metant for implicit computing approach and ANSYS LS-DYNA for explicit computing approach. The results from implicit and explicit solver were compared and discussed. Validation of models was done and results were included in the discussion. Due to big deformations of textiles, explicit solver appears to be more suitable for finite element modelling in textile engineering.

Keywords: Finite element method; Implicit and explicit solver; Textile structures; Modelling; Tensile test; Knitted fabric.

Pages: 30-35


COMFORTABLE AND PROTECTIVE HYBRID WEFT-KNIT PLATED FABRIC FROM GLASS AND WOOL/ACRYLIC YARNS

Authors: İNCE MEHMET ERDEM, İNANIR SEVGI AND ERDOĞAN ESRA KUMSAL

Abstract: In this study, hybrid weft-knit plated fabrics were produced by co-feeding glass and wool/acrylic blend yarns. While the wool/acrylic yarn in contact with skin is expected to provide comfort, the glass yarn next to the environment is to provide protection. The physical, structural, air permeability, bursting strength, and the protection against flame properties of glass plus wool/acrylic plated fabric were compared with the reference fabrics consisting completely of glass or wool/acrylic blend yarn. Two factors: the yarn composition and the cam setting of the knitting machine were considered. Two-ply of glass yarn was fed to the each face of the reference glass fabric, and a single-ply of wool/acrylic yarn was fed to the each face of the reference wool/acrylic fabric. On the other hand, while the hybrid plated fabric’s back face accommodated two-ply of glass yarn, its front face involved a single-ply of wool/acrylic yarn. Two different cam settings, loose and tight, were selected. The physical and the structural properties of the fabrics were measured. Then, air permeability, bursting strength, and the protection against flame tests were performed. Test results were subjected to detailed statistical data analysis and how they were affected by the yarn composition and the cam setting was presented with visual and self-explanatory graphs.

Keywords: Glass yarn; Weft knit fabric; Plated fabric; Protective fabric; Air permeability.

Pages: 36-41


PATTERN RELATED ISSUES IN THE MODELLING OF DEFORMED OVER SURFACE WARP KNITTED STRUCTURES WITH LONGER UNDERLAPS

Authors: LIU HAISANG, KYOSEV YORDAN AND JIANG GAOMING

Abstract: The yarn level modelling of warp knitted structures is a complex process. For structures placed on the plane, it is well investigated and there are a few software solutions and papers reported. This paper considers the simulation of warp knitted structure, deformed in the 3D space. Especially the modelling of the areas of high curvature are detailed observed. Underlaps with longer lengths makes an unreal visualization for simulation results. Different pattern with different length of the underlaps are modelled with original algorithm developed by the authors. Modelling and visualization problems in the areas with long underlaps are discussed and possible solutions are proposed.

Keywords: 3D simulation; Modelling; Curved surface; High curvature; Visualization; Fabric structure.

Pages: 42-48


NEW SOLUTIONS IN THE PRODUCTION OF COMPOSITES - MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF COMPOSITES REINFORCED WITH TECHNICAL EMBROIDERY AND WOVEN FABRIC MADE OF FLAX FIBERS

Authors: PONIECKA AGATA, BARBURSKI MARCIN, RANZ DAVID, CUARTERO JESÚS AND MIRALBES RAMON

Abstract: The main purpose of the article is to present the new possibilities of producing natural fiber composite reinforcement. In this case, a computer embroidery machine by ZSK type JCZA 0109-550 was used. A technical embroidery with a stitch length of 2 mm was made on the machine. The embroidery was made of flax roving with a linear density of 400 tex. The woven fabric was made of the same flax roving as the embroidery, with a surface mass of 400 g/m2. Composites were then produced from the technical embroidery and woven fabric using the infusion method with epoxy resin. The individual configurations differed from each other in the orientation of the roving in the embroidery samples. Samples for tensile strength and tensile elongation tests consisted of 4 layers, while samples for the DCB test consisted of 6 layers, with the addition of a separating foil between the 3rd and 4th layer. Composites were then subjected to strength tests - tensile strength, tensile elongation and DCB test (Double Cantilever Beam test), on the INSTRON machine. During the action of force along the direction of the fibers, composites containing technical embroidery as reinforcement were characterized by higher strength than composites containing woven fabric as reinforcement. Additionally, embroidery is a barrier to the formation of interlayer cracks. Technical embroidery is made on the basis of Tailored Fiber Placement (TFP) technology. This technology allows optimizing the mechanical values of the composite reinforcement.

Keywords: Technical embroidery; Flax fibres; Composites; Mechanical properties; Tailored fiber placement.

Pages: 49-53


DETECTING DAMAGED ZONES ALONG SMART SELFSENSORY CARBON BASED TRC BY TDR

Authors: GABEN MAHDI AND GOLDFELD YISKA

Abstract: The study aims to investigate the ability of smart self-sensory carbon roving to detect damaged zones in TRC structures. State of the art monitoring procedures are based on integrative measurements and accordingly are limited in detecting only the occurrence of damage. This study aims to handle this limitation and offers to adopt the Time Domain Reflectometer (TDR) technique. The TDR concept is widely used in Bayonet Nut Coupling (BNC) cables to identify defects along the cable (opens, shorts, etc.). The current study adopts its principle to carbon rovings. To simulate the BNC cable configuration, the study offers to connect two parallel carbon rovings to the TDR Data Acquisition (DAQ) system. The proposed monitoring technique is investigated by loading two textile reinforced MPC beams under uniaxial tensile loading. Results show the potential of the suggested technique to locate damage zones in TRC structures and highlights its limitation.

Keywords: Time domain reflectometer; Smart carbon rovings; AC measurements; Crack identification technique.

Pages: 54-50


INTELLIGENT TEXTILE AND FIBER REINFORCED MPC COMPOSITES FOR SHM

Authors: YOSEF LIDOR AND GOLDFELD YISKA

Abstract: This study develops novel intelligent composite structural elements combining three advanced technologies: magnesium phosphate cement (MPC) matrix, smart-self sensory carbon-based textile reinforcement system, and additive short-dispersed fibers. In such system, the carbon rovings simultaneously serve as the main reinforcement system and the sensory agent. The material properties of the MPC matrix include minimization of environmental effects, high flexural strength and enhanced rheological properties which is an advantage in textile reinforcement system. From the sensory point of view, MPC is electrically insulated matrix which enhances the measured electrical signal from the carbon rovings. Experimental investigation demonstrates the advanced capabilities of the new hybrid structures. The investigation compares between the structural and electrical responses of textile reinforced MPC elements and TRC elements under flexural loading. The structural-electrical correlation enables to further explore new composite configurations and to develop enhanced smart self-sensory systems. The study demonstrates that by merging MPC mixture with textile and fiber reinforcement systems, it is possible to design and construct thin-walled, elements with advanced structural and self-sensing capabilities.

Keywords: Intelligent structures; Advanced structural response; Enhanced sensory capabilities; Textile and fiber reinforcement.

Pages: 61-66


THE EFFECT OF POLYMER TYPE AND FIBER ORIENTATION ON THE COMPLIANCE PROPERTIES OF ELECTROSPUN VASCULAR GRAFTS

Authors: OZDEMIR SUZAN, OZTEMUR JANSET, SEZGIN HANDE AND YALCIN-ENIS IPEK

Abstract: Vascular diseases are a major source of fatalities globally. However, the lack of accessibility of autologous vessels and the poor efficacy of commercial small-diameter vascular grafts limit surgical alternatives. Researchers therefore aimed to develop vascular prostheses that meet all requirements. Apart from the benefits of tissue-engineered grafts, significant obstacles that still hinder successful grafting include compliance mismatch, dilatation, thrombus development, and the absence of elastin. Among these issues, compliance mismatch between native vessel and artificial vascular scaffold has been mentioned in the literature as a possible cause of intimal hyperplasia, suture site rupture and endothelial and platelet cell damage. As a result, the usage of suitable materials and optimized fabrication techniques are required to achieve better control over the characteristics and functionality of the grafts. In particular, in the case of electrospun vascular grafts, the compliance can be adjusted throughout a broad range of values by adjusting the electrospinning parameters such as material selection, fiber orientation, porosity, and wall thickness. In this study, the electrospun vascular grafts consisting of pure PCL, PLA, and their blends were produced by using two different rotation speeds to achieve the oriented and non-oriented scaffolds. The impact of polymer type and fiber orientation on the compliance properties was evaluated. The results revealed that both material selection and fiber alignment have a significant effect on the compliance levels. PCL100_R grafts had the highest compliance value whereas the PCLPLA50_O scaffold had the lowest.

Keywords: Vascular grafts; Electrospinning; Compliance mismatch; Intimal hyperplasia.

Pages: 67-71


A PRELIMINARY STUDY EXAMINING THE BURST STRENGTH OF VASCULAR TUBULAR SCAFFOLDS

Authors: OZTEMUR JANSET, ÖZDEMIR SUZAN, SEZGIN HANDE AND YALCIN-ENIS IPEK

Abstract: In this study, neat PCL, neat PLA and PLA/PCL (50/50) based tubular surfaces are produced by electrospinning to simulate the native blood vessel structure and to investigate the effects of both graft material and fiber orientation on burst strength. The burst pressure values of these vascular graft structures that designed with both randomly oriented fibers and oriented fibers, measured by a customburst pressure tester, and the results are compared. The results show that fiber orientation have a great influence on burst pressure, regardless of the type of biomaterial. It is determined that grafts with oriented fibers have at least twice the burst strength than those with random fibers. The findings indicate that changing the graft material has also an effect on burst strength. When the results are analyzed by polymer type, although the PLA100_O sample has the highest burst strength among all oriented fiber sample groups, it is better to determine the vascular graft candidate by taking into account radial elasticity.

Keywords: Vascular graft; Fiber orientation; Burst pressure; Mechanical properties; Electrospinning.

Pages: 72-75


FABRICATION AND CHARACTERIZATION OF ELECTROSPUN ANTHOCYANIN-LOADED POLYLACTIDE NANOFIBERS

Authors: PALAK HANDAN AND KAYAOGLU BURÇAK KARAGÜZEL

Abstract: In this study, morphological, chemical and thermal characteristics of biobased and biodegradable anthocyanin-loaded polylactide (PLA) nanofibrous membranes were investigated. To prepare electrospinning solutions, PLA was dissolved at a concentration of 10% (wv-1) in a solvent system of chloroform/dimethylformamide (75/25% vv-1), and anthocyanin at different concentrations (1, 2, and 3% wv−1) was added into the polymer solutions. The prepared solutions were electrospun by using a single syringe electrospinning setup. The morphological, chemical and thermal structure of the neat and anthocyanin-loaded PLA nanofibrous membranes were characterized via Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM), Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FT-IR), and Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC), respectively. The FT-IR spectra proved the incorporation of anthocyanin into nanofibrous membranes successfully. It was observed that when anthocyanin was added into the polymer solution; bead-free nanofibers were produced, and when the concentration of anthocyanin was increased, mean fiber diameter increased as well. In addition, anthocyanin loading did not affect the crystallization behavior of PLA; however, the glass transition temperature (Tg) of the nanofibrous membranes including no anthocyanin in the structure was higher than those of the other membranes including anthocyanin.

Keywords: Polylactide (PLA); Anthocyanin; Nanofibers; Electrospinning; Bio-based.

Pages: 76-79


IMPROVING LOCAL THERMAL COMFORT IN BUILDINGS: A STUDY OF PROPERTIES OF HEATING TEXTILE COMPOSITES IN CONSTRUCTION INDUSTRY

Authors: KANIA ANNA AND BARBURSKI MARCIN

Abstract: The focus of this study is to analyze heating and insulating properties of textiles utilized in the construction industry. Research regarding textile heating composites typically centers around their use in the fashion industry and personal thermal comfort. Therefore, the study focuses on the application of textile heating composites as a method for improving the local thermal comfort of the user. The aim of this project was to analyze and describe the heating and insulating properties of electroconductive yarns and insulating textiles used in the construction industry. This goal was achieved by building physical samples that underwent heating tests. The next step was to compare the examined properties and select the best combination of yarn and fabric, which was then tested in the target environment. It was concluded that the best heating results are achieved with steel thread embroidered on fiberglass mesh and combined with extruded polystyrene that can be used to improve the local thermal comfort of the user.

Keywords: Electroconductive yarns; Heating; Embroidery; Personal thermal comfort; Composite; Building.

Pages: 80-83


DESIGN AND INVESTIGATION THE OPERATION OF TEXTILE BASED ELECTRODES FOR ELECTROTHERAPY

Authors: AGHADAVOOD ROYA, SHAHBAZ ZAHRA, KHEIRI TAHEREH, SHANBEH MOHSEN AND MARTINEK RADEK

Abstract: Electrostimulation is a way of treatment various nerve and muscle injuries as well as acute and chronic pain conditions. The electrotherapy which is increasingly used in physiotherapy, muscle is exposed to an electrical pulse in order to activate excitable tissue using external electrodes with the aim of building muscle strength, enhancement healing, improvement in patient’s mobility or reducing painTextile based electrodes are significantly noticed in the aspects of being flexible and re-usable and no needs of hydrogels, thereby avoiding skin irritation and allergic reactions and enhancing user comfort. This article presents a kind of textile based electrodes made of conductive yarns containing stainless steel/plyester blend fiber. The embroidery technique was used to prepare the textile based electrodes.Samples were examined on 10 people with pain in their bodies in a hospital without being moisturised. The purpose of this study is to asses the performance of 3 different textile based electrodes, considering the conductivity of the yarns which have been used to produce textile based electrodes, the usfulness of them for electrotherapy and comparing them with rubber electrodes commonly are used in clinics regularly.

Keywords: Electrostimulation; Electrotherapy; Rubber electrode; Textile electrodes; Conductive yarn; Embroidery.

Pages: 84-87


SOLUTION BLOWN OF PLA NANOFIBER CONTAINING OZONATED MORMODICA OIL AND ITS MICROCAPSULES TO OBTAIN ANTIBACTERIAL MEDICAL TEXTILES SURFACES

Authors: PEKTAŞ KORAY, BALCI ONUR AND ORHAN MEHMET

Abstract: In the scope of the study, it was aimed to obtain antibacterial nanofiber surfaces containing Momordica oil, its ozonated oil form and its microcapsules forms. First of all, Mormodica oil was exposed to ozone gas for 135 min. After that, crude and ozonated mormodica oil were microencapsulated by using simple coacervation. Subsequently, %10 PLA polymer solution were prepared and used for obtaining PLA nanofiber surface by using solution blowing spinning. Besides, PLA polymer solution were mixed with crude mormodica oil, ozonated mormodica oil and their microcapsules forms and then these solutions were spun by using solution blowing spinning. Obtained ozonated oil, microcapsules and nanofiber surfaces were characterized via measurement of total unsaturated fatty acid amount in the oils, scanning electron microscope, FT-IR analysis and antibacterial activity test. The data showed that mormodica oil were ozonated. Microencapsulation process was done successfully and obtained nanofiber containing mormodica oil and its microcapsules. Moreover antibacterial activity showed that mormodica oil and ozonated mormodica oil showed antibacterial activity against to S.aureus and E.coli bacteria according to the disc diffusion method. The nanofiber surfaces containing ozonated oil and its microcapsules showed antibacterial activity against to S.aureus and E.coli bacteria according to the ASTM E 2149-01 method. As a result, it was obtained biodegradable nanofiber containing microcapsules and showing antibacterial activity.

Keywords: Solution blowing spinning; PLA; Ozonated oil; Microencapsulation; Antibacterial activity.

Pages: 88-92


CHITOSAN ADDED COMPOSITE VISCOSE YARN AND ITS POTENTIAL APPLICATION FOR DENIM FABRIC DEVELOPMENT

Authors: KORKMAZ AHMET AND BABAARSLAN OSMAN

Abstract: The rapid increase in consumption has led to the decrease and even extinction of natural resources on earth. The textile industry also has an important place in terms of consumption. The transition to more sustainable biodegradable products instead of established fossil-based materials has increased rapidly due to textile manufacturers and related industries, legal regulations, social responsibility commitments and increasing ecological awareness of customers. Developing new environmentally friendly, biodegradable material groups with new technologies or by modifying existing technologies has been the main goal of many researchers. In this context, we aimed to develop denim fabric that is effective against strong hospital bacteria by using the yarn containing biopolymer chitosan as a weft in denim production. Chitosan finds wide application in the textile industry due to its biodegradability, antibacterial activity and many more functionalities. Chitosan is used in biomedical textile applications in the textile industry, either as a wound healing, hemostatic (blood stopper), antibacterial, antifungal, either alone or modified to various derivatives or combined with other materials. In this context, instead of using chitosan as a coating material in our studies, chitosan-containing yarn was used in the production of denim fabric in order to distribute the chitosan more homogeneously and to increase the washing resistance. As a result, it was determined that the denim fabric developed by using chitosan-based yarn in weft in denim production reduces hospital bacteria (MRSA-Methicillin resistant staphylococcus aureus) by > 99%.

Keywords: Chitosan; Antibacterial; Denim fabric; Biodegradability; MRSA; Medical textiles.

Pages: 93-98


DESIGN OF ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED JACQUARD MACHINE FOR MULTI-SHED WEAVING MACHINES

Authors: ARSOY RAŞIT1 AND ASLAN SELÇUK

Abstract: The Jacquard shed opening system, which makes it possible to open the shed by controlling the warp threads in groups and obtain different designs and shapes, differs from other shed opening systems in that each group of warp threads and each of them can be controlled as needed. The various warp movements, which are limited by the number of frames in other shedding systems, are limited by the number of sinkers in the Jacquard system. Since all known Jacquard shedding systems are designed for operation with single shed weaving machines, they cannot be used for shedding on multiple weaving machines. In this study, a new electronically controlled jacquard machine for multiple shed weaving machines was developed, which eliminates this problem and enables the opening of the weaving compartments by controlling the warp threads individually in multiple shed weaving machines, thus allowing the weaving of all known jacquard fabric patterns. The technological and kinematic schemes of the jacquard machine were prepared taking into account the type of fabric to be produced, the operating principles of the weft insertion and shedding mechanisms to be used in the machine to be developed, and the expectations for improving the technical and economic indicators of the machine. The electronically controlled pattern reading system, which consists of modules in the machine, converts the electronic data into mechanical data to ensure shedding. In the cam shedding mechanism, which transmits motion to the knives in the form of a stepped shaft in the multiple weaving machine, the warp threads are placed on the knives so that they can move vertically. They are controlled by specially structured sinkers which, in contact with the blades, move from the lower to the upper state with the help of the blades and from the upper to the lower state with the help of springs. When the warp threads are to remain in the upper position according to the pattern, the sinkers are interlocked by electromagnets to form an undulating nozzle corresponding to the fabric pattern. By arranging the interlocking projections along the sinker, it is possible to match the density of the sinker to the density of the warp threads. Since the machine allows weaving of all known jacquard fabrics, the problem of not being able to produce weaves other than the rag foot weave, which is considered one of the major drawbacks of multiple shed weaving machines, has been solved.

Keywords: Jacquard; Shed; Weaving; Plate; Thread.

Pages: 99-104


THERMAL AGING EFFECT ON THE PHYSIO-MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF TEXTILES USED FOR THE REINFORCEMENT OF CONVEYOR BELTS

Authors: LEMMI TSEGAYE SH. AND BARBURSKI MARCIN

Abstract: The use of textiles produced from high tenacity(HT) polyester yarns as a reinforcement material in the mechanical rubber goods industries, mainly in the conveyor belt, is extensively increasing due to their high tensile strength, flexibility, thermal stability, modulus of elasticity, and light weightiness. To achieve the desired property of a conveyor belt, the reinforcement components undergo various processing stages; among those stages vulcanizing the reinforcement materials under high temperatures is the crucial process that determines the physical and mechanical properties of the conveyor belt. The main aim of this work was to analyze the effect of vulcanization parameters on the physio-mechanical properties of high tenacity polyester yarns and fabrics that are utilized to reinforce a conveyor belt. An extensive experimental study was conducted on a pre-activated HT polyester yarn of different linear densities and woven fabrics produced for the purpose of conveyor belt reinforcement by subjecting the yarns and fabrics to various aging temperatures for a certain period of aging time. Following the experiments, a comprehensive study and analysis were conducted on the tensile property of the yarns and fabrics. The finding revealed that thermal aging has an immense impact on determining the tensile strength and elongation of the yarn and woven fabric, which also has a direct influence on the properties of the conveyor belt. The analysis of experimental test results of polyester yarns and woven fabrics revealed that vulcanizing textile-reinforced conveyor belt at high temperatures (220 °C) could deteriorate the tensile strength and increase the elongation at break of the yarn, fabric, or belt.

Keywords: Polyester; Yarn; Woven fabric; Conveyor belt; Vulcanization; Tensile strength.

Pages: 105-109


INVESTIGATING THE APPLICATION OF TERRA DYE ON COTTON KNITTED FABRICS

Authors: SOOCHETA ANAGHA VAIDYA AND BHUNDOO SANSKRITA SINGH

Abstract: Today, sustainable textile dyeing technologies are being researched with a purpose of developing ecofriendly dyes that are cost effective and resource efficient. Natural Earth Pigments also known as native earth pigments, earth colours, earth ochres, iron oxide pigments etc. come from naturally occurring minerals, typically iron oxide or manganese oxide. Terra dye is a sustainable and environment friendly dye which has been derived from pigmented earth and without the use of harsh toxic chemicals. It is 100% natural, obtained from the extraction of minerals. The study investigates the application of ‘Terra dye’ on cotton knitted fabrics. 100% Cotton Jersey and 100% Cotton Fleece fabrics were used. The terra dyed fabrics were tested for their properties of colour uptake, bleeding, rubbing fastness, resistance to light and washing fastness. The effect of different fixing agents was investigated. The results of the lab trials and testing, conclude that Terra dye has good prospects of being used in dyeing.

Keywords: Application; Natural Earth Pigments; Terra Dye; 100% Cotton fabrics.

Pages: 110-119


NOVEL ELASTIC WARP KNITTED FABRIC WITH PERFORATION

Authors: MELNYK LIUDMYLA AND KYZYMCHUK OLENA

Abstract: The aim of this project is to create novel elastic knitted materials with improved comfort for medical products. In this context, warp knitted structures were produced using different weft threads laying in. The elastic warp knitted fabric produced with transverse weft threads for the whole width was used as a reference sample. It is widely used in medical products. Laying in weft threads with a partial set according to a certain repeat allows us to get structures in which there is no connection in adjacent wales in certain places. This leads to the formation of through holes in the structure. As a result of increased permeability, comfort properties are improving. The structure, functional and comfort properties of developed and reference elastic warp knitted fabrics were investigated. It was found that novel elastic fabrics have higher values of comfort indicators and provide the necessary functional properties.

Keywords: Elastic fabric; Warp knitting; Permeability; Perforation.

Pages: 120-125


INVESTIGATION OF STRUCTURAL AND PERFORMANCE PROPERTIES OF HEMP-CONTAINING KNITTED FABRICS WITH DIFFERENT COMPOSITIONS

Authors: SEN KORHAN, KAYA AYSEGUL AND KANIK GOKSU

Abstract: The growing relevance of sustainable materials has increased the importance of hemp-containing products obtained from natural fibers. When the raw materials used in the garment industry are examined, it is observed that the market share of hemp-containing fibers is low in percentage. Researching the production techniques and methods of fabrics to be obtained from hemp fiber and adapting them to the use of clothing will contribute significantly to the development of the hemp product range. It is aimed that these fabrics to be developed will pass tests in accordance with end-consumer standards. In this study, structural and performance properties of hemp fiber were examined and alternatives were produced instead of conventional methods for a sustainable world. In line with the sustainability strategy, there are advantages of hemp fibers in terms of water consumption, environmental impact compared to cotton fiber. Within the scope, studies were carried out to develop single jersey knitted fabrics by hemp- containing at different compositions such as 70 % cotton/ 30 %hemp, 80 % cotton/ 20 %hemp and 90 % cotton/ 10 %hemp, %100 cotton fabric having the similar structural properties was taken as a control sample. As a result, prototype tests were performed considering the structural and performance properties of the developed fabrics.

Keywords: Textile Ecology; Sustainability; Hemp Fiber; Cotton Fiber; Knitting; Water Consumption.

Pages: 126-130


POLYACRYLONITRILE NONWOVENS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF CARBON MATERIALS SUPPORTING THE REGENERATION OF BONE AND CARTILAGE TISSUES

Authors: BOGUŃ MACIEJ, ŚLEDZIŃSKA KATARZYNA, GIEŁDOWSKA MAŁGORZATA, KRÓL PAULINA, KAMIŃSKA IRENA AND MAGDZIARZ SYLWIA

Abstract: The influence of the change in surface weight on the physical properties of oxidized polyacrylonitrile precursor nonwovens intended for the production of carbon materials used in tissue engineering was studied. Thermal insulation properties of the nonwovens and their behavior during incubation in phosphate buffered saline (PBS) were investigated. Initial carbonization tests showed that from the point of view of carbonization and further application of carbon materials, the most effective was the use of a surface weight of about 120 g/m2. At the same time, for the research conducted on the incubation of nonwovens in PBS, no significant change in the pH of the solution was found.

Keywords: Polyacrylonitrile fibers; Nonwovens; PBS incubation; Thermal insulation properties.

Pages: 131-133


IDENTIFYING THE MATERIALS IN ARCHAEOLOGICAL TEXTILES

Authors: BŘEZINOVÁ HELENA, PECHOČIAKOVÁ MIROSLAVA AND GRABMÜLLEROVÁ JANA

Abstract: Given their organic origin, textiles rank among the rarest archaeological finds. While the vast majority of these artefacts are preserved as small fragments or mineralised remnants, their detailed textile technology study provides interesting and important information about the use of textile techniques and the quality of processing. The most important information concerns the utilised textile materials, but for degraded textiles, these materials are among the most difficult information to obtain. Image analysis using electron microscopy (SEM) is a significant aide in this pursuit.

Keywords: Archaeological textiles; Raw material; SEM; Image analyses.

Pages: 134-137


STANDARDISING THE SAMPLE PREPARATION FOR ANALYSIS OF FIBRES AND PARTICLES BY STATIC IMAGE ANALYSIS

Authors: FISCHER HOLGER, SIGMUND INA, HARTWIG PETRA, DEDERER ESTHER AND MASCHINSKI ANNETT

Abstract: Static image analysis is known as a versatile method, which is in use for characterisation i.e. of fibres, nonwovens, textile recyclates etc. Due to incomplete standardization (esp. in the area of sample preparation) the usage is actually limited. Within the project StaPAFaB two research institutes are engaged to compile a reference manual listing typical classes of materials and optimised methods of sample preparation for each of them. This will be combined with recommendations for reasonable parameters in image acquisition / processing and possible limitations for each type of material. Aim is to enable reproducible and consistent analyses on an inter-laboratory level as well as to reduce the demand of time for the analyses. This article focuses on typical classes of textile materials and adapted methods to enable their quick and reliable sample preparation.

Keywords: Image analysis; Sample preparation; Textile fibres; Recycled fibres.

Pages: 138-142


SURFACE ROUGHNESS OF POLYAMIDE KNITTED FABRICS

Authors: TOMOVSKA ELENA AND HES LUBOS

Abstract: Fabrics are never ideally smooth. Their texture varies between fine and coarse, quantified through the surface’s vertical deviation. Fabric roughness, or its opposite smoothness, is employed as measure of the surface texture of fabrics. In general, texture depends upon fiber properties, yarn count, yarn twist, and fabric structure and fabric design). This research aims to determine the limitations in visual perception of surface roughness in comparison to objective surface roughness measurements of low weight polyamide fabrics. Subjective evaluation is used for the visual assessment, while instrumental measurement of the properties was conducted using a noncontact laser profilometer. Subjective evaluation was conducted by a panel of forty untrained evaluators on a sample of seven polyamide knitted fabrics with different yarn count and composition. The roughness profile parameters were measured using Talysurf CLI 500 according to ISO 4827. Although the surface roughness measured as arithmetic mean deviation (Ra) and roughness through visual inspection of the fabric are correlated, instrumental measurements of roughness are more precise. Differences in the surface roughness arising from significantly different yarn structures will be observed, while those due to the knitted fabric structure are negligible in visual inspection.

Keywords: Texture; Surface roughness; Knitted fabrics; Visual inspection.

Pages: 143-146