OPTIMIZATION OF RAWHIDE COLLAGEN DEFIBRILLIZATION PROCESS
Authors: DANYLKOVYCH, ANATOLII; LISHCHUK, VIKTOR; SANGINOVA, OLGA AND SHAKHNOVSKY, ARCADY
Abstract: The paper features the rawhide collagen defibrillization process in the elastic leather materials manufacturing. Optimal colloid-chemical properties of semi-processed products were defined by way of using mathematical optimization of rowhide liming process. It was found that during the alkaline treatment of raw material (in the operating temperature range) the degree of defibrillation of raw material raises (in proportion to the derm collagen swelling) with increase in the ratio of process solution to the mass of raw material, and the extremum of hydrothermal stability and leather yield can be estimated. It was also shown that the degree of swelling decreases with a decreasing ratio of sodium sulphide and sodium hydrosulphide, and the leather area yield reaches the maximum value at the equal proportion of these reagents. Multicriteria optimization of rawhide liming process using the Harrington’s desirability function was carried out. The developed technology of soaking and liming was tested under production conditions. The above-mentioned low-waste technology provides elastic leather materials with a yield increase by 3.5%, which meet the industry standards requirements.
Keywords: Defibrillization; Derm collagen; Rawhide; Liming; Swelling; Multicriteria optimization; Desirability function.
Pages: 3-12
FORMATION OF COMPLEX 3D SURFACES SCANS FOR GARMENT CAD
Authors: RIABCHYKOV, MYKOLA; MYTSA, VIKTORIIA; BONDARENKO, MYKOLA; POPOVA,TETYANA; NECHIPOR, SVITLANA; NIKULINA, ANASTASIIA AND BONDARENKO, SVITLANA
Abstract: Algorithms for building scans of complex surfaces of the human body based on three-dimensional measurements were founded. A mathematical model of the surface was developed, followed by the definition of triangulation parameters. The accuracy of building sweeps followed by pattern making depends on the direction and number of geometric elements. The obtained data should be used to improve garment CAD for pattern making for individual consumers.
Keywords: 3D Surface; Scans; Garment CAD; Pattern making; Kinect device.
Pages: 13-18
INVESTIGATION OF THE RESISTANCE OF DIFFERENT TEXTILE PRINTS TO WASHING AND ABRASION
Authors: PRYBEHA, DMYTRO; KOSHEVKO, JULIA; SKYBA, MYKOLA; KULESHOVA, SVETLANA; SYNYUK, OLEG AND ONOFRIICHUK, VOLODYMYR
Abstract: The article presents the next stage of experimental studies applying images to textile materials. The method of calculating the cost of manufacturing thermal transfer according to the proposed technologies, which were obtained as a result of the practical activity of the authors of the article in production conditions, was tested. The operational, and functional properties of thermal transfers have been studied. Durability of printed fabrics to rubbing and washing has been established. The images were applied to synthetic and natural fabrics. The methods of printing were as follows: DTF printing, offset and screen printing. The application of the results of this study will allow to carry out a qualitative and effective assessment of methods of printing images on textile materials depending on the production conditions for each type of product. A practical test of the proposed method of printing images on the products of the author's collection of women's clothing was carried out. line.
Keywords: Images; Textile materials; Innovative technologies; Decoration; Printing methods; Screen printing; Digital printing; sublimation printing; Thermal transfer printing; Printing cost; Print; Author's collection.
Pages: 19-30
RESEARCH ON LIGHT RESISTANCE OF THE CHENILLE COTTON FABRICS’ COLORING
Authors: OLIJNYK, HALINA; DANCHENKO, YULIYA AND KORNYTSKA, LARYSA
Abstract: Colour fastness is one of the important characteristics, which depends on the further effective and rational use of the potential fabric resource, durability, wear resistance, and the level of competitiveness in the market. Therefore, evaluating the light fastness of colours of cotton fabrics, in the wear of which sunlight plays a major role, is an urgent scientific task. Chenille cotton fabric, which is currently in demand by textile decorators and modern interior decoration, was chosen for the research. The research was carried out using methods of visual and instrumental colorimetry. The conducted research is valuable for providing information to the market and for further analysis and implementation of the process of developing a system technology for designing chenille cotton fabrics.
Keywords: Colour fastness; Chenille cotton fabrics; Consumer characteristics; Colorimetry.
Pages: 31-36
AN ECO-FRIENDLY DYE FOR BATIK CLOTHES: A NATURAL DYE SOLUTION MADE OF MANGO SEEDS EXTRACT (Mangifera indica L.)
Authors: SOBANDI, BANDI; SUPIARZA, HERY; GUNARA, SANDIE; GUNAWAN, WAWAN AND HAMDANI, HAFIZH YASIR
Abstract: Waste pollution resulting from the production process of synthetic batik dyes is against the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) in the aspects of waste management systems and clean water. One effort to cut down the amount of pollution is the use of natural dyes for coloring batik clothes. This undertaking is not only healthy but also expected to bring in some added value economically, community empowerment, and intergenerational inheritance. This experimental research was carried out collaboratively between the Textile and Batik Craft Studio at the Indonesian University of Education, the Umymay Batik Studio, and the Yogyakarta Batik and Craft Center. A batik cloth was dyed 5 times with a mango seed extract solution as the dependent variable, then fixed with lime solution (Ca(OH)2) and Ferrous Sulfate solution (FeSO4.7H2O) as the independent variables. The dyed fabrics were tested for their colorfastness against washing and sun exposure. The results of the study: 1) The process of dyeing the batik cloth was performed through several stages, that is, by cutting the cloth with a canting stamp, dyeing the cloth, and fixing it with Ca(OH)2 and FeSO4.7H2O, the batik cloth fixed with Ca(OH)2 tended to be brown in color while the other one fixed with FeSO4.7H2O resulted in black; 2) The results of the Color Fastness Test against Washing at 40℃ on the batik cloth that has been dyed with mango seed extract fixed with Ca(OH)2 and FeSO4.7H2O were considered a good category with respective values of 4 on a scale of 5. Likewise, the results of the Color Resistance to Light: Day Light Ray Resistant Test Value with the fixation of Ca(OH)2 and FeSO4.7H2O was in the moderate category with a value of 3 each on a scale of 5. There should be a governmental policy to promote a green industry. As for batik artisans, they can utilize an eco-friendly alternative dye for batik clothes.
Keywords: Mangifera indica L.; Batik; Eco-friendly; Natural Dyes; SDGs.
Pages: 37-47
EVALUATION OF THE QUALITY OF CELLULOSE SEMI-FINISHED PRODUCTS FROM TECHNICAL HEMP AND THE POSSIBILITY OF THEIR FURTHER USE
Authors: LIALINA, NATALIA; YUDICHEVA, OLHA; SAMOILENKO, ANTONINA; BEREZOVSKYI, YURII; MOROZ, OLEG; BONDAR-PIDHURSKA, OKSANA; GLEBOVA, ALLA; KHLIEBNIKOVA, NATALIIA AND NOVIKOVA, VIRA
Abstract: The article discusses the issues of processing industrial hemp into goods for various functional purposes. Particular attention is paid to the processing of hemp trusts into cellulose-containing semi-finished products, as well as to the analysis of the properties of cellulose-containing fibrous materials obtained from industrial hemp. Based on the results of the study of physical, mechanical and organoleptic characteristics of the obtained cellulose-containing semi-finished products, their suitability for the pulp and paper industry and other sectors of the national economy has been established. The presented research is relevant for the purpose of creating an own raw material base for pulp and paper enterprises and light industry enterprises.
Keywords: Technical hemp; Shale trust; Trust obtained by soaking; Husk layer; Fibrous semi-finished product; Hemp cellulose; organoleptic indicators.
Pages: 48-54
